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Table Scraps Pinnacle
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Table Scraps 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Aaron Rough (FFA)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,341
Submitted By: Rough on Sep 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Max heading up the runnel. This shot gives a good...

Description 

Head up the center of the wall on a juggy crack that overhangs for the 1st 10 feet. Once past the lip, trend up and left along the defined slab left of the crack. Aim for the obvious huge runnel. Bridge back and forth keeping the bolts on your left. This thing is juggy the whole way and stays moderate despite a decent increase in angle near the top.

Location 

Center of the wall. Obvious huge runnel.

Protection 

9 bolts + anchors


Photos of Table Scraps Slideshow Add Photo
Max at the top of Table Scraps.
Max at the top of Table Scraps.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 17, 2014
By Floyd Hayes
Mar 15, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Cool climb, a gem of a stem!
By Dodrill
From: Sebastopol, CA
May 23, 2010

Probably the best route at Scraps.
By Patrick Sanan
From: Lugano, Switzerland
Nov 27, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Lots of fun! Probably easier than 5.8, though, due to the wild abundance of holds.
By Floyd Hayes
Dec 6, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Now that I've led this and Cayucos several times, I think they're equally difficult and 5.7.
By Floyd Hayes
Mar 9, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Unfortunately the first bolt was missing this afternoon. I didn't examine it carefully to be certain what happened to it. I clipped the first bolt of Appertif, which wasn't very reassuring.
By Rough
Mar 11, 2013

That really sucks and is head shaking. I'll bring the drill and a replacement and epoxy for the rest of the bolts next time out there :(

The first bolt was placed where it was for two reasons:

#1- The rock in the first few moves is very chossy, a fall there is highly possible due to the rock and the landing is not good.

#2- The start is the crux and not everyone brings a stick clip with them.

Why can't people just leave others work alone? I pray I run into the tard who thinks pulling this crap is a good idea.
By John M Ross
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Jun 2, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Aaron, was out here today, the first bolt was definitely chopped, annd the sawed down, makes the start scary cus that rock is definitely choss
By Jack Hamm
From: Berkeley, CA
Jan 8, 2014

I'm hoping to head out this weekend. Any idea if that first bolt was replaced or not? I'm a relatively new sport leader, so I don't want to push my luck.
By Rough
Jan 8, 2014

Hey Jack: I haven't been out there since I heard about the hanger theft, so I doubt it's replaced. However, if you have a stick clip you will be able to reach the 2nd bolt (now 1st) easy enough. If not, I think you would be fine with your belayer spotting you bouldering style. At worst, you can always walk up the backside and scootch along the ridge to get to the anchors. It's a little sketchy but I have done it several times and it isn't that bad. Just bring a daisy chain to clip into Aperitifs anchors as you move over to Table Scraps anchors.
By Mark Fletcher
Jul 14, 2014

The first bolt is still missing; however a Blue 3.0 Camalot works well in the crack nearby. This climb is awesome. I loved the stemming up the large runnel.
By harmonydoc
Aug 17, 2014

Number 3 Camalot worked great in the crack next to the chopped bolt, thanks Mark. Fun stemming! One of the bolts near the bottom was loose (2nd or 3rd I think).