Tabeguache Tower  5.9+ A1 R

933 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.11a/b A0-1 [details] FA:  Bill Duncan, Steve Anderton, Matt Simpson, FFA: Ben Rueck & Rob Pizem New Route:  Yes Season:  spring, fall Submitted By:  Bill Duncan on Aug 14, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The 1st pitch and a half of Tabeguache Tower. Bil...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

It has fine climbing on good rock with an excellent view of Rough Canyon and Grand Mesa from a very small, 1 person summit. It is located near Grand Junction, east of Colorado National Monument. The route ascends an obvious crack system on the east face.

Pitch 1: Begin on a thin crack (A1/C1), follow this until a blocky section is reached which can be free climbed (5.8) to a good belay ledge atop a large block. 120 feet (37m)

Pitch 2: Climb a fist crack (5.8) to a large bombay chimney. Move left around a huge fin inside the chimney and climb some offwidth and squeeze to a small roof, (5.9). Aid the roof (A0, #4 Camalots) and climb 30 unprotected feet (9m) up a squeeze chimney (The Time Warp), then past some loose rock to a 2 drilled-pin belay at the saddle, 5.9R. 150 feet (46m).

Pitch 3: Aid climb with Beaks in drilled holes and a couple of Knifeblades to a 2 drilled-pin anchor 10 feet (3m) below the summit, (A1). Scramble to the summit with a leash.

Descent: Rap to the anchors at the saddle at the top of the 2nd pitch. Rap to the west, to the saddle between the tower and the wall. Scramble down and to the north to some webbing around a large block on the opposite side of the gully. Rap to the ground.

Location 

Park at the Tabeguache Trail parking area and hike 1/4 mile (.4 km) south on a rough road to a small canyon. Go left or east, following this canyon about 1/2 mile (.8 km) to where the canyon joins the large valley of Rough Canyon; some scrambling down will be involved. Tabeguache Tower will be obvious at this point, 10 minutes up the hill to the south. The tower is also visible from the rim of the canyon, a short hike down the Tabeguache trail.

Protection 

Rack: Standard desert rack with 3 #4 Camalots, 1 #5 Camalot, 2 #4 Big Bros, 3 KBs, 6 baby angles (1/2"), 2 5/8" angles, 3 Bird Beaks.

Photos of Tabeguache Tower Slideshow

Add Photo

Tabeguache Tower.	Matt on the summit pitch.	BETA PHOTO: The first topo of Tabeguache. I used to draw them...