This is a real hidden gem for the 5.10 trad climber. The entire route has excellent pro and thought provoking moves the entire way. Climb up some broken ledges to reach a protruding flake (you can sling this for some bomber natural pro). Grab the flake and pull the overhang staying left of some mountain laurel to reach a ledge. From here, wonder right and left following the path of least resistance. The crux comes at mid height as you make the first traverse to the left side of the arete. Follow very positive holds and plates to the finish.
Continue walking left along the Moon Wall. When you pass the 2nd waterfall (if it's flowing) continue past some rotten rock until the buttress begins to improve (approximately 100 yds past the waterfall). Locate the arete with a juggy overhang at the start about 20 feet up.
Shuts. A standard rack up to a #2 or #3 Camalot. Mostly mid sized gear.
|By Felix Duvallet|
Jul 10, 2012
I climbed this in July 2012, and there were brand new anchors at the top of the route.