T2 Direct Finish 5.9 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | FRA David Light, 1980s |
| Submitted By: | Guy H. on Apr 20, 2010 |
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The direct finish is in RED.
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons.
The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152
From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
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Description This pitch has some adventurous climbing on a seldom visited face. If lichen and runouts are not your thing, you should probably traverse off on the standard finish.
The direct finish starts right at the end of the final, 5.9 pitch on T2. From the belay nook, traverse slightly left and find the best spot to pull through the roof. A marginal 0.5/0.75 cam can be placed before pulling through on positive holds. Wander up the face on positive but sometime lichen covered holds to the obvious roof crack. Finish up on easier terrain. The descent off the top of tower two is a little tricky, the obvious solution may lead to a dead end. (4th class)
A great 7 pitch 5.9 linkup starts on Touch & Go, traverses to Jules Verne, climbs upper T2, and finishes on this pitch. You could also lengthen the linkup by climbing Body Tremors and Smoke & Mirrors to the summit of Tower One.
Location The Direct Finish heads straight up after the 5.9, overhanging talus pitch on T2.
Protection Gear to 3".
| Comments on T2 Direct Finish |
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By Goodhue
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 1, 2013
| Excellent pitch! (2 pitches?) If only it would get climbed more and some of the lichen would get scrubbed off. Even still, I highly recommend it.
After the dicey talus pitch of T2, you'll be on a ramp. Look for a pocket in the wall, then go up and right over the roof to big jugs. Then aim for the obvious hand crack in a small roof, and climb on to the top! |
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