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Redgarden - Tower Two
Routes Sorted
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10,000 Leagues T 
After The Gold Rush T 
Avoid the Rush T 
Bolting for Glory T 
Briny Deep, The T 
Cave Pitch T 
Centaur T,S 
Contest, The S 
Diving Board, The T 
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 
Fools Learn TR 
Genius Loci S 
Ghoul's Turn T,TR 
Green Willow Wall T,S 
Inset, The T 
Jules Verne T 
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 
King Tut T 
Le Void T 
Lene's Dream T 
Love Minus Zero T 
Naked Edge, The T 
No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 
Old Bad Aid Crack T 
One Way Out T 
Orifophobia T 
Plastic Jesus T 
Predator T,S 
PsychGillLogical T 
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 
Rosy Crucifixion T 
Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 
Seams Beyond T 
Seize of Holds T 
Serpent, The T 
Shasta T 
Sickness Unto Death S 
Slots of Fun T 
Slow Train Coming T,S 
Superlink, The T 
T2 T 
T2 Direct Finish T 
Touch 'N' Go T 
Weeping Willow T 
Wild Kingdom T,S 
Wingless Victory S 

T2 Direct Finish 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FRA David Light, 1980s
Page Views: 717
Submitted By: Guy H. on Apr 20, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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The direct finish is in RED.

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  • Description 

    This pitch has some adventurous climbing on a seldom visited face. If lichen and runouts are not your thing, you should probably traverse off on the standard finish.

    The direct finish starts right at the end of the final, 5.9 pitch on T2. From the belay nook, traverse slightly left and find the best spot to pull through the roof. A marginal 0.5/0.75 cam can be placed before pulling through on positive holds. Wander up the face on positive but sometime lichen covered holds to the obvious roof crack. Finish up on easier terrain. The descent off the top of tower two is a little tricky, the obvious solution may lead to a dead end. (4th class)

    A great 7 pitch 5.9 linkup starts on Touch & Go, traverses to Jules Verne, climbs upper T2, and finishes on this pitch. You could also lengthen the linkup by climbing Body Tremors and Smoke & Mirrors to the summit of Tower One.

    Location 

    The Direct Finish heads straight up after the 5.9, overhanging talus pitch on T2.

    Protection 

    Gear to 3".


    Comments on T2 Direct Finish Add Comment
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    By Goodhue
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 1, 2013

    Excellent pitch! (2 pitches?) If only it would get climbed more and some of the lichen would get scrubbed off. Even still, I highly recommend it.

    After the dicey talus pitch of T2, you'll be on a ramp. Look for a pocket in the wall, then go up and right over the roof to big jugs. Then aim for the obvious hand crack in a small roof, and climb on to the top!
    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Jun 19, 2014

    Once on top, wander up the slab (~30 ft?) and locate a new threaded cord anchor. Make a messy rap north, then scramble up the slab until you intersect the Yellow Spur walk-off that leads back down to the Chockstone rappels.