Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Redgarden - Tower Two
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
10,000 Leagues 
After The Gold Rush 
Avoid the Rush 
Bolting for Glory 
Briny Deep, The 
Cave Pitch 
Centaur 
Contest, The 
Diving Board, The 
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) 
Fools Learn 
Genius Loci 
Ghoul's Turn 
Green Willow Wall 
Inset, The 
Jules Verne 
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation 
King Tut 
Le Void 
Lene's Dream 
Love Minus Zero 
Naked Edge, The 
No Lo Contendere 
Old Bad Aid Crack 
One Way Out 
Orifophobia 
Plastic Jesus 
Predator 
PsychGillLogical 
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent 
Rosy Crucifixion 
Scratch and Sniff 
Seams Beyond 
Seize of Holds 
Serpent, The 
Shasta 
Sickness Unto Death 
Slots of Fun 
Slow Train Coming 
Superlink, The 
T2 
T2 Direct Finish 
Touch 'N' Go 
Weeping Willow 
Wild Kingdom 
Wingless Victory 

T2 Direct Finish 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FRA David Light, 1980s
Page Views: 624
Submitted By: Guy H. on Apr 20, 2010
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
The direct finish is in RED.
  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This pitch has some adventurous climbing on a seldom visited face. If lichen and runouts are not your thing, you should probably traverse off on the standard finish.

    The direct finish starts right at the end of the final, 5.9 pitch on T2. From the belay nook, traverse slightly left and find the best spot to pull through the roof. A marginal 0.5/0.75 cam can be placed before pulling through on positive holds. Wander up the face on positive but sometime lichen covered holds to the obvious roof crack. Finish up on easier terrain. The descent off the top of tower two is a little tricky, the obvious solution may lead to a dead end. (4th class)

    A great 7 pitch 5.9 linkup starts on Touch & Go, traverses to Jules Verne, climbs upper T2, and finishes on this pitch. You could also lengthen the linkup by climbing Body Tremors and Smoke & Mirrors to the summit of Tower One.


    Location 

    The Direct Finish heads straight up after the 5.9, overhanging talus pitch on T2.


    Protection 

    Gear to 3".



    Comments on T2 Direct Finish Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Goodhue
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 1, 2013

    Excellent pitch! (2 pitches?) If only it would get climbed more and some of the lichen would get scrubbed off. Even still, I highly recommend it.

    After the dicey talus pitch of T2, you'll be on a ramp. Look for a pocket in the wall, then go up and right over the roof to big jugs. Then aim for the obvious hand crack in a small roof, and climb on to the top!