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 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
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2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner T 
2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right T 
D.A.'s Route T 
Dialysis Bag T 
Direct North Face T,TR 
Direct to top of Second Pinnacle  T 
Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] T 
Diversion T 
East Bench Dihedral T 
Inset, The T 
Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) T,TR 
Juniper Crack (1st pinacle) T 
Left Variation (1st pinnacle) T 
Macropsychotic T 
McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnacle) T 
North Face of the West Bench (2nd Pinnacle) T 
Northeast Chimney T 
Northeast Corner T 
Now and Zen T,TR 
Outside East Face T 
P.S. I'm Blonde T,S 
Pizza Pie Crack T 
Red Gully, The T,TR 
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane S,TR 
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) TR 
SE Face aka Southeast Arete (First Pinnacle) T 
Second Pinnacle East Face T 
Second Pinnacle South Face T 
Shortcut T 
Siberian North Face T,S 
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] T 
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) TR 
South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) T,TR 
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) T 
Standard Inside East Face T 
T-Zero West Face aka Finger Crack T,TR 
Tyrolean Traverse TR 
West Bench Dihedral T,TR 
West Face (of T-Zero) T,TR 

T-Zero West Face aka Finger Crack 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 703
Submitted By: Mike Sofranko on Sep 4, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Kira, 49 or 50", heel hooking, on a 5.5.

  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    Another would-be 3 star route marred by its brevity.

    Begin just inside the Amphitheatre on the right. T-Zero is the first small summit on the right. Climb the west face of T-Zero via a nice (and obvious, and short) finger crack and a cool flake to the summit. This is on the inside east face of the amphitheatre.

    Descend by carefully downclimbing the 4th class north ridge, then stepping back west into the Amphitheatre.

    Rossiter calls this route Finger Crack.

    Per Tony B:

    Well, step into the Gregory Canyon Amphitheatre, and the first somewhat large rock on the right (East) is T-Zero. There is an obvious finger crack on the left side of this which becomes a left-facing corner at the top. There are many pin scars on the bottom section. Despite the traditional 5.5 grade, short people will have a hard time getting started (5.7?) and then from there it's big moves on big holds... [secure], but 5.5??? The sequence is more physical then most 5.5s.

    To descend, walk to the North end, drop off the East side, then scramble North to the ground (5.2).

    Eds. this was submitted as two different named routes, partly due to confusion in guidebooks. They are combined here to avoid further confusion.

    Protection 

    SR.

    Per Tony B: a few stoppers, small tricams or TCUs plus one large cam for the exit moves. (3-4")

    The TR up to can be set from above with gear or some cordelette/webbing around features.


    Photos of T-Zero West Face aka Finger Crack Slideshow Add Photo
    Finger Crack on T-Zero.
    Finger Crack on T-Zero.
    T-Zero.
    T-Zero.

    Comments on T-Zero West Face aka Finger Crack Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jun 2, 2006

    Finally got back to this. It's tough for 5.5 for sure. It overhangs without incut holds or bomber jams. Kids 4' or less will find it very challenging.
    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    Jun 23, 2015

    This is a duplicate route entry. As if this area isn't confusing enough...

    mountainproject.com/v/t-zero-w...
    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    Jun 23, 2015

    Historic? Maybe.
    Fun? Yes, but Classic? No way.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 23, 2015

    Yeah - looks like they should be merged. Apparently the names are not the same in all books (I used the Rossiter Book from the '90s), and the layout of the routes in any book is, at best, confusing.
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