When things are too crowded in T-Wall's eastern section, do yourself a favor and head west. Though it's actually where all the earliest route development took place, T-Wall West usually has far fewer climbers. This is not due to poor rock, though; there are a lot of great routes here, including some of the few multi-pitch lines at T-Wall.
Depending on where you want to climb, there's several alternatives for getting to the western section of T-Wall. The most obvious is to follow the main trail all the way up to the crag at the falls, then hang a left. This will put you in the Amphitheater area, near climbs like Open Casket and Psycho Path.
If what you're looking for is further down the wall, hike the main trail from the road for about 10 minutes (about a quarter of a mile) and look out for a fork marked with a stone cairn. Take the left fork and follow it to the cliff; this will put you in the Paradise Walls area right below Paradise Falls. Routes in this vicinity include Quick and Dirty and the Birth Simulator.
For climbing at the far left (western) end of T-Wall, the more obscure Cibola Trail is your best bet. The Cibola Trail starts about .6 mile past the main trail; use a pull-off on the south (river) side of the road. The most obvious landmark for the trail is a large wedge-shaped boulder visible from the road.
Following a line of surveyor's-tape-marked trees, the trail becomes more defined for some distance, then becomes more obscure. The surveyor's tape ends about the time the cliffline becomes visible above a sizeable rock outcrop. Bushwhack around the outcrop (left or right seem equally viable) and scramble up to the cliff. At this point, you'll be about where the westernmost Cibola area ends and the Valhalla Wall begins (routes to the right). A landmark climb in this vicinity is Mass Transit.
Weather station 5.2 miles from here
57 Total Routes
['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',26],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in T-Wall West
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for T-Wall West:
Talon 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, 3 pitches, 150'
Wood Spirit 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Superwave 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For T-Wall West
Open Casket 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TN
: The Tennessee Wall
: T-Wall West
When you tire of the routine corners and faces that typefy T-Wall stone, it's time to poke around a bit and pry open the Casket. High Indiana Jones-value on this one.Rounding the corner left of the falls, a squint into the darkness reveals a gaping, ever-widening chasm, choked with blocks reminiscent of towers on the Colorado Plateau. Surely, you think, this cannot be 5.9. And yet, with unlikely reaches to secret jugs, with wild stemming across the chasm, with locker hand jams under the huge c...[more] Browse More Classics in TN
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The start of the Cibola trail, about a half-mile p...