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Ice Cream Parlor
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T-Rex 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 350', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tom Gilje
Season: morning shade
Page Views: 1,514
Submitted By: charley graham on Nov 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Oh. Crap.

Description 

AKA: Roofs from Hell, The Separate Reality of Moab. Like the rest of Gilje's routes, this one ain't no gimme. Four distinct 5.11 cruxes: thin face, thin corner, overhanging jugs and a big roof-crack to finish makes for a multi-pitch Wingate route as action packed as any other in the desert.

pitch 1: thin vertical scoops protected by bolts. 5.11c, 100ft.

pitch 2: bolt protected climbing up corners and slabs. 5.10, 100 ft.

pitch 3: hard to protect thin corner directly above the spacious belay ledge. 5.11 pg13, 50ft.

pitch 4: The crux. Overhanging face to horizontal crack. 5.11c, 100ft.


Location 

Far right side of the ice cream parlor. Look at the skyline and locate the imposing horizontal roof crack, then extrapolate downward to find the start of the route. The first pitch begins from a small ledge and is the only bolt protected line in the vicinity. Descent is via rappel from an anchor to the right of the top-out.


Protection 

Lots of quickdraws for pitches 1, 2, and 4. The third pitch takes tiny nuts and a double set of cams from tiny to off-fingers. The final roof crack takes a double set from #.75 camalot to #3 camalot.



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By Scott Bennett
Mar 19, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

Sick route, I was very impressed. P4 is one of the most unique pitches I've done in the desert! My partner and I agreed that 11c feels like a pretty serious sandbag, but we kind of expected that, considering the FA. We thought P1 was more like 11d, and cryptic at that. P4 is very strenuous, and probably deserves 12b.

P3 was a tough lead as well, maybe mid-hard 5.11 with very thin pro. We had a set of ballnutz, and I placed 4 of them. We climbed the thin crack/corner that starts a few feet left of the belay bolts, but it looks like you could also climb the easier-looking crack system to the right of the belay bolts. The right crack looks easier and decently protected, but maybe a bit sandier.

Gear (what I would bring next time): 12 QDs, Sm-Med Stoppers, Ballnutz 1-3, 1x Black Alien, 2x Blue through Yellow Alien, 1x Purple and Green Camalot, 2x Red Camalot, 1x Blue Camalot. P1 takes just QDs, but I'd carry the whole rack on P2-4.

A single 70m rope gets you down. After topping out, look to climber's right for the top rap anchor, it's located slightly below the rim in a little cave/shelf. From there, you can rap to the top of P2 (70m required!), and then two more raps down the route gets you back to the ground.

-Scott

By Josh Janes
Mar 19, 2010

"Gilje had an eye for what was just barely there." Amazing. 5.12 R.

By jakobi
From: moab, utah
Aug 27, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

Pitch 3 as described definitely seemed dangerous, after climbing up and not finding good pro I down climbed and checked out the right variant described and found much more moderate terrain with decent pro. I didn't have any slider nuts, could have made it seem safe though I doubt it. This is an amazing route, even if the first 3 pitches are just okay. Pictures speak louder than words for P4, make sure you win the rochambeau and get to lead it.

By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Aug 27, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

... and wear a helmet