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T-Rex
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T. Rex T 

T. Rex 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: J. Ingels, M. Peterson, RJ Gauer
Page Views: 502
Submitted By: Kole DeCou on Mar 9, 2006

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T. Rex

Description 

Not the best rock, but a perfect flat little summit and some wild face climbing make this a classic. Pitch 1 gets all day shade, Pitch 2 gets all day sun.

Pitch 1) 40' 5.9 From the north-west side, go up a hand crack to a big ledge below the limestone band. Clamber right over some loose blocks and build a belay on the south face.
--or--
Pitch 1 variation) 40' 5.10 The the good looking corner on the west face. Probably requires big gear.

Pitch 2) 60' Go up the right-hand corner in the limestone band, then past 2 drilled angles to the summit. Super fun. A little looseness, but not too bad.

Descent: Single rope rap off the back. The anchor has recently been renovated with new bolts.


Location 

Park at Chimney Rock Parking (end of Andante road). Follow the trail east toward T. Rex and Botany 500. After 0.25 miles go left on a small trail. When this trail starts going the wrong way follow drainages up to T. Rex. Shouldn't involve much bushwhacking if done right.
GPS: 34,52.883'N 111,48.300'W


Protection 

Nuts, 2 each to #3 Camalot.



Photos of T. Rex Slideshow Add Photo
T. Rex Topo
BETA PHOTO: T. Rex Topo
Doug Biber follows the face moves at the end of the second pitch (delighted to have a top rope!).
Doug Biber follows the face moves at the end of th...
The first pitch of T Rex- a clean dihedral with a wide roof to finish. (The 5.10 variation shown in the topo).
The first pitch of T Rex- a clean dihedral with a ...
Heather Hayes leading the wild face climbing at the end of the second pitch (onto the head of the dino).
Heather Hayes leading the wild face climbing at th...
Doug Biber at the wide crack above the roof on the first pitch (yes, it is too wide to hand jam!).
Doug Biber at the wide crack above the roof on the...
Doug rappels while Heather waits her turn to descend from T Rex.
Doug rappels while Heather waits her turn to desce...
Comments on T. Rex Add Comment
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By Ryan Z
May 25, 2013

There is another start that begins in the notch between T-Rex and Sipapu. I climbed it on accident and was pleasantly surprised. It was basically a hand crack through a bulge, some blocky choss, then a tapered hands to fingers crack (5.10 PG13). Belay on a ledge then traverse right and join the standard 2nd pitch. The standard last pitch felt like 5.9+ at most by Sedona standards.