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Gibraltar Rock
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T-Crack 
Variation of the Midface 

T-Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 6,125
Submitted By: EricT on Feb 1, 2006
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Richard Shore on T-Crack. Photo by Michael Stearns...

Description 

Good jams to a angry mantel. Pro is at one's feet for the mantel, making it a spicy lead. Approach from above, nothing to be gained by scrambling around the base. Once on top, walk across the top to the west and then down a few feet to a ledge.

Mid way down on the east side is a nice ledge for abusing the climber by throwing stones or taking pictures.


Protection 

Up and right of the route are a pair of bolts. For toproping, it is useful to have a long static line to get the anchor over the edge (roughly 25 feet away). Alternatively, a gear anchor can be set at the top of the climb.



Photos of T-Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Turning lip to gain the horizontally traversing crack...
Turning lip to gain the horizontally traversing cr...
Richard Shore starting up T-Crack. Photo by Michael Stearns
Richard Shore starting up T-Crack. Photo by Michae...
Milking a no-hands rest just before the business..
Milking a no-hands rest just before the business..
My favorite lead for 100 miles...
My favorite lead for 100 miles...
Phil climbs the Santa Barbara classic T-Crack, at Gibraltar Rock.
Phil climbs the Santa Barbara classic T-Crack, at ...
Jake Sahl busting the mantle move.
Jake Sahl busting the mantle move.
T-Crack as seen from slightly higher up Gibraltar road. As the red line shows, the route weaves a good bit.
BETA PHOTO: T-Crack as seen from slightly higher up Gibraltar ...
Phil executes the infamous mantle on T-Crack at Gibraltar.
Phil executes the infamous mantle on T-Crack at Gi...
Comments on T-Crack Add Comment
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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 7, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

I once fell off the mantel while leading the route. While I don't recommend falling, the plummet is actually quite clean. I did, however, have a helmet, which was nice because I landed upside down, almost clocking my belayer. Overall, the fall amounted to about 15-20 ft. Spicy, indeed. Use discretion, know your limits, and remember that climbers in the 60s and 70s were friggin studs. Just because they led this thing with tennies and chocks doesn't mean that you can style it with cams and sticky rubber. That being said, T-crack might be my favorite lead in the area.

By Richard Shore
May 20, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

I finally led this rig yesterday, and it is now my favorite in SB. I will do it over and over again. 2X cams from 0.5-2 will pretty much stitch this baby up. Smaller pieces for your belayer's anchor at the base - I used pink, red, and brown tricams.