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Synthetic puffy with hood choices
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Sep 12, 2012
Bocan
bearbreeder wrote:
Whatever fits, uses modern insulation, is decently light .. And is on sale They all work more or less the same ...


That's mostly true, but not completely. For example the Atom LT and WT Insulight have side stretch panels which make them not windproof, but highly breathable. If you aren't looking for that, then the SV would be a better choice.

It's mild nitpicking, but when you are dropping some decent scratch on a jacket you want to make sure you are getting the technical features you want. Type and amount of insulation, drawstrings and other features can really make a difference when it counts.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
947 points
Sep 12, 2012
Scott McMahon wrote:
That's mostly true, but not completely. For example the Atom LT and WT Insulight have side stretch panels which make them not windproof, but highly breathable. If you aren't looking for that, then the SV would be a better choice. It's mild nitpicking, but when you are dropping some decent scratch on a jacket you want to make sure you are getting the technical features you want. They can really make a difference when it counts.


i own and use an atom lt ... there was a MB and EB jacket that had the same panels

if you look at those crazy ascents, the best climbers use whatever gear they cant get off their sponsors ... the nanopoofay doesnt have any stretch fleece panels, yet its been used by some very good climbers on very respectable ascents ...

its the climber that makes the difference ... if it wasnt then every crazy ascent would be done in an atom LT ... we know this is not the case ;)
bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
2,143 points
Sep 12, 2012
Cham '11
bearbreeder wrote:
Whatever fits, uses modern insulation, is decently light .. And is on sale They all work more or less the same ...



I'd disagree with that comment as well. Actually they don't all work the same. Not even close imo. The differing insulation, Primaloft One via Eco for example and what they use for a cover on the isulation does indeed matter as does, the other materials to make them more breathable, more water proof or more wind proof.

Also important to know what level of insulation they are usng in the body, hood, arms for example and if they change within the same garment.

Fit is the most glaring difference to the unitiated and uneducated. But it is by no means the most important unless of course the garment doesn't fit you ;)
Dane
Joined Jun 18, 2008
580 points
Sep 12, 2012
The amount if insulation matters of course ... As to the rest ... Like i said people use different brands and models to all do crazy things even bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
2,143 points
Sep 12, 2012
Bocan
bearbreeder wrote:
The amount if insulation matters of course ... As to the rest ... Like i said people use different brands and models to all do crazy things even


True...but I have no desire to do what Steve House does. haha climbing 8K meter peaks with an 18lb pack.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
947 points
Sep 12, 2012
I really like Arc'teryx's Atom series. The LT and SV function a bit differently, but both have been killer.

MH Compressor is a staple, just like the Nano Puff. Both are pretty well-known and popular pieces. The Patagonia Micro Puff is a good one, too, recently redesigned with Primaloft One insulation rather than Eco.

The Rab gear that I have (or used) has been great. I think of them somewhere between Patagonia and Arc'Teryx, in terms of usability, with a better price tag than either.
Stephan Doyle
Joined Jan 5, 2012
0 points
Sep 12, 2012
piney creek canyon
The I have come up with is:

Patagonia nanopuff vest
Arc'teryx atom lt hoody

The vest or jacket alone when breathability is paramount and both together when the temp drops or at a belay
Richard88
From Sheridan, WY
Joined Dec 13, 2009
95 points
Sep 12, 2012
Montbell is crap, the fabric breaks down too quickly. Nano puff all the way! chosspector
From San Juans, CO
Joined Oct 19, 2008
1,289 points
Sep 13, 2012
Me at the summit of Inner Course (5.4) in the Outl...
I tried on the women's Montbell Thermawrap (UL?) hooded jacket, and thought the sleeves were very narrow and tight at the elbow. The Thermawrap full-zip pants are great, though. KathyS
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Joined Nov 16, 2007
137 points
Sep 13, 2012
Middle
bearbreeder wrote:
its the climber that makes the difference ... if it wasnt then every crazy ascent would be done in an atom LT ... we know this is not the case ;)


And in this thread someone wants to know the specifics of the clothing, not how to be a professional climber. If you look at the suggestions throughout this thread it is obvious not everyone is familiar with the similarities and differences of the lightweight insulated jackets on the market.
Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Joined Jul 23, 2010
130 points
Sep 13, 2012
Red Rock, Cannibal crag
I can only comment on the ones I've used/own:

Atom SV: Very warm, durable, light.. qualifies as a parka
Atom LT: Warm but breathable, light.. can be used hiking, most comfortable in low wind. Not quite protective enough to consider a parka imo, insulated mid layer.
OldManRiver
From Cottonwood Heights, UT
Joined Jul 18, 2012
75 points
Sep 13, 2012
My Atom LT breathes extremely well. Steve86
Joined Jul 17, 2011
10 points
Sep 13, 2012
Ray Pinpillage wrote:
And in this thread someone wants to know the specifics of the clothing, not how to be a professional climber. If you look at the suggestions throughout this thread it is obvious not everyone is familiar with the similarities and differences of the lightweight insulated jackets on the market.



what i find most amazing is that no one here has asked the OP the question ... what are you going to use it for ... before making recommendations

youll also notice that everyone recommended and likes different brands/models ... just goes to show that different things work for different people ;)
bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
2,143 points
Sep 13, 2012
Cham '11
Ranar wrote:
So I'm looking for a synthetic insulated jacket WITH a hood. Which seems like my choices are limited to: Arc'teryx Atom SV (which I'd love to afford/ find a sale one) Arc'teryx Atom LT hoodied .....Am I missing any worthwhile?


Where and how you will use it?

Seems trival compared to what the OP originally asked.

The SV is a full blown winter parka, a bet for mildly cold conditions, imo. The LT a nice sweater weight garment. I use them both as single items of clothing intentionally but for different temps and activities. I use the two together as a dedicated combo for some else entirely.

Combine the entire group of hooded synthetics available and a few stand out. At that point the details will matter.
Dane
Joined Jun 18, 2008
580 points
Sep 13, 2012
Middle
bearbreeder wrote:
what i find most amazing is that no one here has asked the OP the question ... what are you going to use it for ... before making recommendations youll also notice that everyone recommended and likes different brands/models ... just goes to show that different things work for different people ;)


I agree agree but saying "just get the cheapest" is about as useful.

I know you know the technical differences.
Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Joined Jul 23, 2010
130 points
Sep 13, 2012
Ray Pinpillage wrote:
I agree agree but saying "just get the cheapest" is about as useful. I know you know the technical differences.


mea culpa ... i should have the the cheapest that reasonable works for your purposes ;)

as to differences ... ill stick to the opinion that the current generation of climbers do the craziest things in all the brands, theres no reason why the brand would limit me to doing the minor things i do ...

spending less money on gear will mean more money to play .. i think its very instructive that the people who climb harder, more, crazier than me often have less/cheaper gear ...
bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
2,143 points
Sep 13, 2012
Middle
bearbreeder wrote:
mea culpa ... i should have the the cheapest that reasonable works for your purposes ;) as to differences ... ill stick to the opinion that the current generation of climbers do the craziest things in all the brands, theres no reason why the brand would limit me to doing the minor things i do ... spending less money on gear will mean more money to play .. i think its very instructive that the people who climb harder, more, crazier than me often have less/cheaper gear ...


Money/time has an inverse relationship most of the time.
Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Joined Jul 23, 2010
130 points
Sep 13, 2012
Has anyone ever ordered from sunnysports.com ?

They have a good deal on the OR Havoc but I don't want to use a shady site to save $20.
Tom T
Joined Apr 7, 2006
126 points
Sep 13, 2012
Bocan
Tom T wrote:
Has anyone ever ordered from sunnysports.com ? They have a good deal on the OR Havoc but I don't want to use a shady site to save $20.


Sunny is good to go. Bought off them before at great prices.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
947 points
Sep 13, 2012
Thanks Scott...one OR Puffy enroute. Tom T
Joined Apr 7, 2006
126 points
Sep 13, 2012
I'm looking on the warmer side of synthetics for this guy. I already have fleece equivalent layers from R1 loft to a little less than R3, and an ultra warm down jacket. NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Sep 13, 2012
Bocan
Ranar wrote:
I'm looking on the warmer side of synthetics for this guy. I already have fleece equivalent layers from R1 loft to a little less than R3, and an ultra warm down jacket.


In that case take the Atom LT off your list. Won't fit the bill as it's probably the lightest off all the jackets listed.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
947 points
Sep 13, 2012
Ranar wrote:
I'm looking on the warmer side of synthetics for this guy. I already have fleece equivalent layers from R1 loft to a little less than R3, and an ultra warm down jacket.

Then skip the Atom LTs, Nano puffs, etc that are all around ~60 g/m^2 insulation.
The "warmer side of synthetics" is going to be >100g/m^2 (Montbell Thermawrap Guide [150], Patty Micro [100], Patty DAS [170], First Ascent Igniter [100])...and on n on.
Brad W
From San Diego
Joined Apr 16, 2009
87 points
Sep 13, 2012
Brad W wrote:
Then skip the Atom LTs, Nano puffs, etc that are all around ~60 g/m^2 insulation. The "warmer side of synthetics" is going to be >100g/m^2 (Montbell Thermawrap Guide [150], Patty Micro [100], Patty DAS [170], First Ascent Igniter [100])...and on n on.


I know I'm treading into a ocean of shades of grey with this next question.

The down jacket that I have is the MH Subzero (650 down..yes I know that's not a direct correlation to the warmth of it) is the 100g fill going to be closer to this jacket/ warmer side of down jackets.
NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Sep 13, 2012
Middle
Ranar wrote:
I know I'm treading into a ocean of shades of grey with this next question. The down jacket that I have is the MH Subzero (650 down..yes I know that's not a direct correlation to the warmth of it) is the 100g fill going to be closer to this jacket/ warmer side of down jackets.


Your down jacket is probably closer tot he warmth of a DAS.
Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Joined Jul 23, 2010
130 points


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