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Synethesia AKA Linger Fickin Good! 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FA Mark Hawthorne/ Mark GeikenJoyner, FFA Rodney Blakemore
New Route: Yes
Season: spring -summer -fall
Page Views: 2,279
Submitted By: markguycan on May 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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On the second ascent of this new test piece.

Description 

90ft of mostly finger jamming. the off-width at the top is "pleasantly easier"

Location 

Located in the approach drainage to Book of Friends. Continue up til just before it becomes a slot canyon. then look for the South facing "S" shaped finger splitter.

Protection 

Quadruple set of TCU's, nuts useful too, plus Double set to #3.5Camalot, Rap from a bolt and fixed piece below the big roof.


Photos of Synethesia AKA Linger Fickin Good! Slideshow Add Photo
Kyle pinkpoint on the gear from my attempt, 2nd week of May 2008. He TR'ed it once, then ran up the route like it was a 5.4 on my gear, and then came back two days later with Keith Beckley to get a clean redpoint. By my account I think that was the 2nd free ascent on lead.
Kyle pinkpoint on the gear from my attempt, 2nd we...

Comments on Synethesia AKA Linger Fickin Good! Add Comment
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By bernard
From: birmingham, al
Jan 18, 2008

A single 90 ft pitch.....and Grade V???
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Mar 27, 2008

he's relating the time he spent working his way up, I can relate.
By Floater
From: Flagstaff AZ
Jun 20, 2008
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b C0

This route goes free at 12+ F.A. Rodney Blakemore, and is called Synesthesia as a free climb. FYI the first 40' make a great 11a, and has a lowering station.
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Oct 22, 2009

Just redpointed this as a freeclimb today. I agree with the 12+ rating.

This is an excellent pitch requiring skill in different size jamming, faceclimbing, small pro and staying cool. It protects very well.

A double set of cams to green Camelot and singles to blue Camelot should suffice. I used the blue on the first pitch at the traverse move. The upper OW can be protected by a red or gold Camelot just placed a little farther back, in case you don't want to drag a large cam up.