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|Park at Pratt Trailhead near the top of Signal Street.|
An eighty foot, quality trad climb in an incredible setting.
The original line includes a super thin 5.12 boulder problem start on beautiful, water hardened sandstone. Two 5.9+ starting variations offer alternatives.
Sustained 5.8 after the start, the route then follows great edges and slopers upward past a bush. The uppermost part is an awesome section of thin and exposed 5.8+ with solid pro below the feet.
The climb tops out upon an airy perch with wild views of the canyons and the East End of Ojai.
The three starting variations, all established on lead the same day:
Original Start (5.12) *** Begin directly below left facing flakes on micro edges.
Wandering Start (5.9+) * Starts right of the Original Start. Grab the shelf and mantle. Then traverse to the flakes.
Right Side Direct (5.9+) R ** Begin as for the Wandering Start but climb directly upward through the lower face. This variation has amazing rock and some great movement but is unprotected. The bush midway up the route is the first pro.
The tallest line visible from the trail. The obvious line up the rightmost side of the left-side formation.
*Currently, it is necessary to construct an anchor and rappel from the top to reach the base due to a phalanx of poison oak standing guard. Hike/scramble to the top via the obvious trail cutting across the potrero. The belay spot at the base is clear of poison oak. Don't forget to clean the holds as you descend*
The flakes above the original start offer the first pro. A #2 camalot fits, and there are spots for a #3 and a #4, but walking is a danger so use a sling.
The bush midway can easily be slung and offers reasonable pro.
The upper crux can be protected quite safely by building a nest of solid gear, including a good mid-size nut, in the various fractures preceding it. A horizontal crack offers a great #3.
To set up a top-rope: a top-rope can easily be set up by scrambling up the right hand side of the formation on the obvious trail. Once at the top, a boulder can be slung and combined with bushes and/ or large cams for a bombproof TR set-up. Make sure to bring long slings or some static line to extend the anchor point over the lip.
At the top of Indian Paintbrush.
On the first ascent. Here I've completed the bould...
Slinging the bush midway up the climb during the f...
The top-out perch above Indian Paintbrush.
Looking down onto the potrero and Foothill Trail.
Ready for the FA.
photo: Cori Tite
The first move of the boulder problem start.
Almost through with the 5.12 start.
photo: Cori T...
Eyeing the upper 5.8 crux after slinging the bush....
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