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The boulder problem start.
|Park near the top of Signal Street.|
A sixty five foot trad climb in a great setting.
Options for the start include a super thin 5.12c boulder problem on a beautiful, water hardened sandstone slab. This is the most direct line to the first chance for pro, a cam behind a rib. Two 5.8 starting variations offer alternatives.
The uppermost part is a section of thin and exposed 5.8 with solid pro below the feet.
The top out is great and offers excellent views of the canyons and the East End of Ojai. Come ready to sling some boulders for an anchor up top.
The three starting variations:
Wandering Start (5.8) Starts right of the Boulder Problem Start. Grab the shelf and mantle. Then traverse left to the rib.
Right Side Direct (5.8) R Begin as for the Wandering Start but climb directly upward through the lower face. This variation is unprotected.
Boulder Problem Start (5.12c) Begin directly beneath the left facing flakes on micro edges. A stout V7 slab problem guards the first chance for pro.
Top Roping: a top rope can be set up by scrambling up the right hand side of the formation on the obvious trail.
Come prepared with enough webbing or static line to construct an anchor.
To reach the base:
Upon reaching the saddle, follow the trail into the trees. The trail will rise and head left, following the cliff band. Before you reach the 3rd class gully, a faint trail heads downhill. Follow this climbers trail to the base.
To reach the top of the climb:
Follow the directions above, but scramble up the 3rd class gully.
Single cams #(.75-4).
BETA PHOTO: The view from Foothill Trail.
Nolan scoring the second ascent.
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Jan 19, 2015
This was the first climb done in the area, and was so scruffy it barely looked climbable. But its position above the meadow was great and the place in general picture perfect, and I would sometimes hike up and top rope it by myself. Eventually I was able to get others to come check it out and, after some cleaning and a handful of ascents, it started to look like a reasonable lead. There was even a cool boulder problem start directly beneath the ribs.
Since then it's been led a bunch and I've seen it done onsight as well.