Symmetry Crag 4 - Trinity Buttress
||Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600', Grade III
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA: ||8/1/70 Yvon Chouinard and T.M. Herbert|
|Page Views: ||790|
|Submitted By: ||Toby on Apr 30, 2009|
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BETA PHOTO: The route starts on the ledge with the tree near t...
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For the folks who have climbed many of the classic Cascade Canyon climbs, or if you head up to Guide's Wall and it's a mob scene you should check out Trinity Buttress. The first and fifth pitches of this route are fantastic. However, the middle few pitches are not the best, although you can get by them quickly. You will never have to wait in line on this climb and it's only a few minutes walk past Guide's Wall. Also, you can easily do Guide's Wall after this route as the decent puts you out at the rappels for Guide's Wall (more on that later).
The first pitch may deter some folk at 5.7R, however, if your solid at 5.7 it is quite reasonable. Really nice rock and good wondering face climbing leads to a short dihedral with great stemming and jams. A few wandering pitches and you are on a ledge a way up ready for the nice 5.9 corner. This pitch is the highlight of the climb and has fairly sustained climbing on good rock.
Overall the climb is a great half day adventure with easy access from Jenny Lake. It's well worth the effort if you have climbed a bit in the area.
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To find this little adventure, walk past the turn off for Guide's Wall for about 2 minutes. We left our packs and extra stuff hanging in a tree by the creek before going up commando toward the Buttress, as you decend off Guide's Wall. Study the picture (#82) and bring a copy of the topo (p.287) from the guidebook. Before leaving the trail you will be able to pick out the route as seen in the picture in the book. Follow the far left side of the talus coming off Guide's Wall. Start traversing to the left (west) when you get close to the base of the wall. You will have to do some 4th class to gain the base of the route. The route starts on the highest ledge with trees, which is close to the crest of the buttress. In the photo in the guide, the left wandering start of the route is the 4th class, and where the route goes straight up that is the start of the first pitch. Once on the ledge the route starts on the far right side, and the short stem dihedral above will be visible.
Once topped out check out all the potential for routes above! Then follow the ledge towards Guide's Wall. There is no trail and eventually you will be in the gully to the west of Guide's wall. From the gully you can walk/ downclimb to the last rappel on Guide's Wall, or keep climbing from the top of the first pitch. It is easy to traverse in at many points here, and you can follow a ledge from the gully to the flake ledge. Enjoy!
Standard Teton Rack. Double set of cams up to 3" and stoppers. The topo shows RP's in the dihedral on the 5th pitch. I don't remember too many small nuts, but you might as well bring some along. As for the 5.7R just keep looking, and wondering right and left and it will stay 5.7. Get creative for pro. No fixed anchors, I don't think this route sees too much traffic. Last summer there were slings around a tree on the ledge atop pitch 4. I think a two rope rap would bring you down to the big ledge atop the first tier, where you can walk off.
BETA PHOTO: The start of P1.
|Comments on Symmetry Crag 4 - Trinity Buttress
By Andrew Carson
From: Wilson, WY
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The top buttress has some excellent rock and makes the day totally worthy. If it weren't such a slog up to it, I think it'd be a recommendation to skip the first two steps and get to the good stuff.