Sword 

Hi Chris. In the route description/rating you might want to add PG13 (you currently have it rated "G" with no specification, per Mountain Project rating standards).

I've had first hand experience with a lead climber breaking their foot on the less protected arete section you describe. We shrugged off the PG rating in the guide with regards to the runout. She became exhausted when trying to place pro in a poor spot, which directly contributed to her fall when she tried to take her next step. I've experienced similar fatigue when spending too much time placing gear in poor spots. It's not something I hear a lot about and thought it was worthy of mentioning here since the chance of it happening is obviously high on this route. :-)

[The injured climber is recovering and back to climbing after 2 years, but has some disability]

Hi Kevin--

Thanks for the feedback, though I don't see where I have rated the gear as "G"? As far as I can tell, I've rated it PG (under the gear section), which in my mind, is fairly accurate, as the gear placements are definitely there, though a little spread out.

Compare to this link, note the PG13 next to climb's name in title

The exposure on this route and the steep climbing off the belay probably make this a less than ideal route for the 5.6 leader. But if you are comfortable leading any of the classic gunks 5.6s this should be a cakewalk.

The arete is Good but getting to it is not all that much fun.

Despite my prior comment(s), I had still not yet climbed this until yesterday. Great albeit short route. Definitely places for protection where needed, smaller cam helpful in one particular horizontal crack near the top. I agree with Worth that Redrum (5.4) isn't anything special, as the easiest P1 worth doing to get to the base of the climb.

I linked this pitch with redrum (not recommended) the 2 climbs were farther apart than i had anticipated but regardless there is a good ledge to setup a belay for sword from the top of redrum.Such a great climb but be weary of the weather on this one because it can heat up real fast on the exposed arete. Also the gear was great and the bolt seemed to be in perfect condition. Id say PG solely because falling on the sharp arete would suck.

I would not call this even PG. The gear is all there, every time you have bomber footing there is a gear placement, what more can you ask for? Though I would agree that falling on the arete would most definitely suck. I also thought the climbing seemed easier than 5.6. ALL that being said, I thought that this route was awesome. I thoroughly enjoyed it, even a little bit more than the ever famous Rockaholic.