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Sword In The Stone 
Tunnel of Love 

Sword In The Stone 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bruce Hildenbrand and Ron Olsen, 9/20/06
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,169
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Sep 21, 2006
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Ron Olsen stepping up to a great horizontal edge a...
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Description 

Sword In The Stone is a cool new sport route on the First Tier of Avalon. It climbs the face and knife-edge arete left of Mists of Avalon.

Start 25' left of Mists of Avalon, below some broken slabs with loose rock. Scramble up the slabs to a ledge below a small overhang. Climb up and left past three bolts (cracked horizontal hold in here) and several small overhangs to a stance at the base of the arete. Work up the knife-edge arete (crux) past three more bolts to a bulge. Clip a final bolt and cruise to the anchor.


Location 

On the First Tier of Avalon, 25' left of Mists of Avalon, below a knife-edge arete.


Protection 

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. All bolts were drilled by hand by "Bosch-less Bruce".



Photos of Sword In The Stone Slideshow Add Photo
Sword In The Stone  <br />If that is you, let me know, I have some more photos for you....
Sword In The Stone
If that is you, let me know, I...
Sword In The Stone.  Climb up and left past several small overhangs to the arete. Climb up the knife edge arete and pass a final bulge to the anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Sword In The Stone. Climb up and left past severa...
Peter Dillon at the crux on the arete.
Peter Dillon at the crux on the arete.
Sword In The Stone and The Mists of Avalon, as seen from the road.
BETA PHOTO: Sword In The Stone and The Mists of Avalon, as see...
Bruce Hildenbrand moving onto the arete on the first ascent.
Bruce Hildenbrand moving onto the arete on the fir...
A close-up of the knife-edge arete.
BETA PHOTO: A close-up of the knife-edge arete.
Sword In The Stone.
Sword In The Stone.
View from the trail at the start of the route.
BETA PHOTO: View from the trail at the start of the route.
Glory!
Glory!
Bruce Hildenbrand cranking the fun moves past the second bolt.
Bruce Hildenbrand cranking the fun moves past the ...
Getting ready for the crux.
Getting ready for the crux.
Comments on Sword In The Stone Add Comment
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By Ryan Malaty
From: Broomfield, CO
May 2, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

It was definitely fun, awkward, but fun.

It requires some weird moves, but if climbed correctly it can make it easier.

The back side of the arete is really crappy, but it gets the job done.

By L G
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 20, 2010

Lotsa fun with a variety of moves up the face then using the sharp arete. Sensibly protected.

By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Jul 30, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Didn't think the arete was all that sharp. Fun climb.

By Alan Butler
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 8, 2010

Very nicely bolted- just where you want them to be.

By MATTY D
Sep 28, 2011

Definitely fun and, as mentioned earlier, bolts placed exactly where you would want them. Push through the arete and be rewarded with a nice pocket below the last bolt, then you are home free. A grade of 5.9 or a lower end 9+ feels accurate. Great route and amazing area for intermediate climbers.

By Mitch Musci
Apr 11, 2012

Lower end 9+? I laughed out loud. How many hairs are you gonna split?

By Dan White
From: Western CO
Jul 3, 2012

It's a nice climb, it starts with somewhat wandering moves on blocks to the arete. Watch out for z-clipping on the arete, the bolts are extremely close together.