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Swiss Wall
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Swiss Miss 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Pat Thompson
Page Views: 585
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Jul 13, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

Climb up the right side of the chimney on the outside of the blunt arete. Getting off the ground and established is quite tricky. After a few moves some better holds are encountered. After this a horizontal break is encountered allowing a nice rest, before the easier finish.

Probably a bit soft for the 12a grade, considered 11a if the backwall is used.

Location 

Far left side of Swiss Wall. Up the hill and left from White Gang Wall. To the right is an unknown 5.8 jug haul.

Protection 

5 Bolts to Anchors


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By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 29, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Downgraded to the established grade of 11a as not using all available features just seems silly.
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 6, 2014

I disagree, there are many sport climbing areas where to earn the grade and in my opinion to do the climb you avoid using certain features or cracks. On Main wall you avoid stemming to the back wall on "Heart Shaped Box" and "Limestone Cowgirl". To me the 11a stemming way seems like the variation.

Also thanks for sorting the routes!
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 6, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Thanks for the thought provoking feedback. I avoid the back wall on Limestone Cowgirl but use it on Swiss Miss. To call one feature on while calling the other off is hypocritical and arbitrary. I suppose it is up to the individual how to approach each route.

I reverted the established grade to 5.12a.