Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Hillbilly Routes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.6 dihedral T,TR 
Balls on a Kite T,TR 
Barnyard TR 
Bio-Degradable T,TR 
Booze Pigs S,TR 
Cascadia T 
Curse of the Drill S 
Drink to Puke T,TR 
End of the Innocence S 
End of the Innocence variation S,TR 
Generation Gap S 
Her Spidery Chamber T,TR 
High School Romancer TR 
Left Side Dihedral (aka Corner Crack) T,TR 
Manic Depression S 
No Time to Linger  TR 
Organic Matter TR 
Pagan Rituals S,TR 
Penitent Crack T,TR 
Pine Tree Crack T,TR 
PWB Arete S 
Repentance Crack, The T,TR 
Sex Weed T 
Strong Faith T,TR 
Sunset Ascent S 
Swiss Cheese S,TR 
Turkish Revenge S,TR 
Two Hands of Prayer T,TR 
Zig-zag crack T,TR 
Zschiesche toprope problem TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Swiss Cheese 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ??
Season: 3
Page Views: 2,828
Submitted By: James M Schroeder on Sep 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Eric Relien on a lead of Swiss Cheese

Description 

Swiss Cheese was the first bolted line one encountered upon entering the canyon proper (before all of the new bolting). Generally speaking there is a pile of cheater stones at the bottom of the route to assist in the direct variation. The stones are there to overcome the overhang, and avoid tumbling into the hollow/cave below. These cheater stones may be considered a sage tactic by some, and in my humble opinion are more sketchy than pulling the move outright. The actual route starts in the corner (getting up the corner and over to the first bolt is the crux) to the right and traverses into the route. The route proper is slightly off angle and follows a line of great patina holds, that seem to define the phrase "great patina holds" - up the beautiful sandstone wall. This is a great route, especially for someone learning to lead.

Protection 

4 Bolts to a pair of chains - a stick clip might be useful for the first bolt.


Photos of Swiss Cheese Slideshow Add Photo
The crux of  swiss cheese... smear and reach!
The crux of swiss cheese... smear and reach!
Lindi on her first sport lead!
Lindi on her first sport lead!
The alternate start is in green and the first bolt...
BETA PHOTO: The alternate start is in green and the first bolt...
Brian on Swiss Cheese
Brian on Swiss Cheese
Swiss Cheese!
BETA PHOTO: Swiss Cheese!

Comments on Swiss Cheese Add Comment
Show which comments
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Nov 18, 2006

As fun as I remembered. The top anchors looked a little rusty and sketchy, but they held all 200 lbs. of me. Get on this thing.
By Leveille
From: Appleton, WI
Jun 29, 2007

Did my first sport lead on this and it was pretty amazing. Great patina holds and the moves just feel real good.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Aug 13, 2007

I'd consider stick clipping the first bolt. The crux is basically going to the first, after which it's pretty cruiser edge climbing to the top. The huge pile of cheater stones used to help in getting to the first. The stones are gone, but it seems like the route was bolted for the "cheater start." So, stick clip it.
By Tradoholic
Aug 12, 2009

Great route! The direct start looked pretty hard so we opted for the right hand start.

The chains looked pretty good today. There could be a need for replacement in a few years or so.
By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Apr 30, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

this route is awesome, and easy to change climb to climb. a stick clip is mandatory, with a wicked fall being, well, wicked. there are many subtle differences if you climb slightly right or slightly left of the obvious line up the bolts, but they all are about 5.8 to 5.9 climbs. fun stuff.
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Aug 18, 2014

I'm in the process of updating/replacing the anchors on Swiss Cheese. They were beginning to look pretty manky and I'm pretty sure those chains were there in '98 or '99 when I first climbed here. I left them in usable condition when I left Saturday, but I want to yank the old bolt, patch the hole, update the chains/hardware and camouflage the the whole setup. It's a work in progress - so at least wait until it's done to flame me for it.