A fairly indistinct route, which partially explains the range of ratings from 5.4-5.7. The entire lower 30 feet of the route is deeply incut, vertical to slightly-overhanging sandstone. The route then reaches a "third class ledge" (ref: Morris's guidebook). Leaders will go left, up the "fourth class gully", tying off handles as in the lower section. On toprope, the recommended, and more challenging line, ascends an obvious arete to the right, directly to the enormous knob which serves as the anchor for the route. This variation is unprotected, though a single bolt would suffice to make it a dandy leader route.
If leading, you can ascend the lower section, and up the 4th class face to the left totally with natural pro, by tying off to the buckethandle holds. One of the things that makes this a really fun route.
An enormous knob, accessible from the backside of the rock, is the usual anchor for this route. A 40-50' piece of webbing is required to sling the knob and run over the lip of the rock.
BETA PHOTO: Montage taken from base of Goat Rock by Morgan Bro...
BETA PHOTO: Goat Rock as viewed from the approach. You can se...
Chat first outdoor climb on Swiss Cheese
|By Dennis Harvey|
Sep 25, 2005
There are at least 4 to 5 spots where you can garth hitch handles, which is a fun experience by itself.
I saw two brand new 3/4 inc bolts but the hangers are gone. You can argue that you don't need these bolts with all the natural pro. Never the less, I don't understand why anyone would take the hangers. One bolt is over towards the 5.6 arete finish and would add extra element of protection to that variation.
Sep 12, 2006
A fun easy solo.
|By Joel Frederico|
Jun 9, 2013
Whatever bolt anchor had existed for this route has been chopped. My book shows two anchors and I found where they used to be.
I wish there was some more beta about how many slings I'd need.
Jul 21, 2014
Used 6 or 7 slings to girth hitch handles (didn't trust some of 'em), 2 being double length, and a #.3 BD C4 about 20 feet or so from the start (probably could've used at least 2 more doubles to prevent rope drag)... One bolt on top, which I backed up with 50' of static line to a tree just behind the rock..... didn't see any other bolts out there except about 10 feet to the left which I wasn't ballsy enough to walk across the "ridge".