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a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
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Alphonse 
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Disney Point 
Disneyland 
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Fat Stick Direct 5.10b 
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Gelsa 
Grand Central 
Hounds, The 
Independence 
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Inverted Layback 
Kansas City 
Land of The Giants 
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Sling Time 
Swing Time 
Te Dum 
Yellow Belly 
Yellow Ridge 

Swing Time 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ants Lemeets and Elmer Skahan, 1964 FFA, Stannard, 1968
Page Views: 581
Submitted By: lucander on Mar 14, 2012
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Description 

This climb intersects and shares a belay with the popular moderate Te Dum; consider avoiding it on busy days.

P1 Climb the crack up to a roof, clip the slings for pro and step right to a stance. Pull the roof out left (crux) to another stance, then continue up the broken left-facing corner system to a belay (75 feet, 5.10b).

P2 Up the corner and hand traverse left to a stance. Pull the roof at a finger crack (crux) to an awkward stance, then make a wild traverse right under the blood orange roof and exit to the top (50 feet, 5.11-).


Location 

Start: 15' left of Disneyland at at the incipient crack in a slab


Protection 

Rack to 2 or 3"



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By Nicola Masciandaro
Sep 15, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a PG13

P2 is harder than 11-; more like 11d, I'd say. A bystander noted that a hold has broken and my partner, who had done it years before, confirmed that. After first easy roof with finger crack, make a super cool move with heel and hands on a horizontal to reach up and far right to an incut flake, gain a slightly restful stance below the second roof, then exit right on small gear.