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 ADVANCED
a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alphonse T 
Baskerville Terrace T 
Broken Sling T 
Criss T 
Criss Cross Direct T 
Disney Point T 
Disneyland T 
Easy Rider T 
Fat City Direct T 
Fat Stick T 
Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 
G-String Giants T 
Gelsa T 
Grand Central T 
Hounds, The T 
Independence T 
Infinite Space T 
Inverted Layback T 
Kansas City T 
Land of The Giants T 
Layback T 
Le Plie T 
Outer Space T 
Saint Louis T 
Sling Time T 
Swing Time T 
Te Dum T 
Yellow Belly T 
Yellow Ridge T 

Swing Time 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ants Lemeets and Elmer Skahan, 1964 FFA, Stannard, 1968
Page Views: 726
Submitted By: lucander on Mar 14, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This climb intersects and shares a belay with the popular moderate Te Dum; consider avoiding it on busy days.

P1 Climb the crack up to a roof, clip the slings for pro and step right to a stance. Pull the roof out left (crux) to another stance, then continue up the broken left-facing corner system to a belay (75 feet, 5.10b).

P2 Up the corner and hand traverse left to a stance. Pull the roof at a finger crack (crux) to an awkward stance, then make a wild traverse right under the blood orange roof and exit to the top (50 feet, 5.11-).

Location 

Start: 15' left of Disneyland at at the incipient crack in a slab

Protection 

Rack to 2 or 3"


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By Nicola Masciandaro
Sep 15, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

P2 is harder than 11-; more like 11d, I'd say. A bystander noted that a hold has broken and my partner, who had done it years before, confirmed that. After first easy roof with finger crack, make a super cool move with heel and hands on a horizontal to reach up and far right to an incut flake, gain a slightly restful stance below the second roof, then exit right on small gear.