|a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
This climb intersects and shares a belay with the popular moderate Te Dum; consider avoiding it on busy days.
P1 Climb the crack up to a roof, clip the slings for pro and step right to a stance. Pull the roof out left (crux) to another stance, then continue up the broken left-facing corner system to a belay (75 feet, 5.10b).
P2 Up the corner and hand traverse left to a stance. Pull the roof at a finger crack (crux) to an awkward stance, then make a wild traverse right under the blood orange roof and exit to the top (50 feet, 5.11-).
Start: 15' left of Disneyland at at the incipient crack in a slab
Rack to 2 or 3"
|By Nicola Masciandaro|
Sep 15, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a PG13
P2 is harder than 11-; more like 11d, I'd say. A bystander noted that a hold has broken and my partner, who had done it years before, confirmed that. After first easy roof with finger crack, make a super cool move with heel and hands on a horizontal to reach up and far right to an incut flake, gain a slightly restful stance below the second roof, then exit right on small gear.