Swing Time 5.7
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BETA PHOTO: How we broke up the upper pitches of Swing Time. ...
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Description I would give this route an S rating but both Rossiter and Roach did not.
Whether you started the climb at the lower spacious ledge above the overhang or on the next ledge up. The goal is to reach a large block located at the center of the face. There is also a large tree close to the block. The pitches to reach the block are easy 5.2 but covered with lichen. After chimnying up the block, you will be confronted by a large, left-facing dihedral that ends in a large roof.
The guidebooks recommend setting up the belay at the block, but as this made for a short pitch, we continued 40 feet up the dihedral and made a delicate unprotected 5.4 traverse left on pebbles to turn the roof on its left side. From there, a quick scramble down onto a ramp enabled us to set a belay on a decent crack (190 feet, 5.4). There is supposed to be a bolt here, but we did not see it.
Climb up the ramp some 20 feet and overcome a vertical, 6 foot wall (crux) on the right. There is some pro at this point, but I wouldn't want to test it. The crux move deposits you back onto the East face. Once there, find a crack running up the center of the face and climb one more easy pitch to the top.
We set up a belay at the crack and top roped the East Face route pitch (5.8S) that differs from Swing Time (see East Face route).
Protection Standard Flatiron rack up to a #3 Camalot. Small TCUs will protect the crux.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 13, 2001
| An alternative way to finish this route is to continue up the ramp (rather than exiting right). The is easy but exposed since you are climbing above the south face. When you are below the summit itself, head up and then right to finish on the last few feet of the east face. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 15, 2002
rating: 5.7
| This route appears to be the same as "Dihedral" in Rossiter's book. Can anyone confirm this to be the case? |
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
May 15, 2002
| I have always assumed this route was the same as Rossiter's Dihedral, but this is just from comparing the two guides (Rossiter and Roach). |
By JamesB
Apr 25, 2006
| We climbed Swing Time and took the alternate route that goes up the south ramp almost to the summit before exiting to the right, onto the east face. The pro up the south ramp is thin and I wouldn't want to fall on it. There is a piton about half way up the ramp. I think this might be the piton mentioned in the Rossiter guide although it is further up the ramp than the guide had led to me to expect. The Rossiter guide had suggested belaying from this piton but we belayed further down where you first step onto the south face. The rap bolts are in good condition and one 60 m rope down the south face easily got us to the bottom. |
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