||Trad, 6 pitches, 500', Grade III
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA: ||Darryl Cramer, Greg Olsen, Larry Kemp, 91 FFA w/P4 variation: Mikey Schaefer, 2011|
|Season: ||Not summer|
|Page Views: ||1,186|
|Submitted By: ||Drewsky on Dec 29, 2008|
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This route is a masterpiece of edgy granite 5.11 up high, while down low there is a variety show of interesting climbing. P2 has some strange granite puzzles and P3 has steep crack climbing. P4 crosses a band of rock resembling diorite. The free variation is way cool too, but may expand your definition of what '.11+' feels like. When we did the route in '05 or so, there was a little bit of moss and lichen that made the holds feel smaller. A cursory brushing even with a simple Lapis brush and some chalk would do wonders for making the climbing more fun.
P1 (Hard .11+): Edge and crank your way past two small roofs into a cruxy corner. Slightly mossy climbing finishes at bolted anchors on a ledge. Sometimes treated as a 'separate' climb because of its difficulty. 100'.
P2 (.11+): Fun face climbing heads to the right off the belay through two obvious cruxes to another belay stance. This is the crux pitch but only if you skipped the first pitch by climbing in from Town Crier or Green Drag-On. 80'
P3 (5.9+): Steep crack climbing leads to a large ledge (Smokeout Ledge). Gear to #3 camalot. 45'.
P4 (5.10 A0 or "hard 5.11d", AKA .12b/c): A few A0 bolt pulls lead to very interesting face climbing in a large area of a different rock variety to a hanging belay at a stance. 90'. Alternately, a free variation (.12c) starts to the right of the bolt ladder, crossing it at its 2nd or 3rd bolt. A crux down low leads to flat edges and a poor stance. A friction crux requiring some serious granite sorcery climbs out of a left arching corner and leads to easier climbing on the quartzite rock above, rejoining the main Swim route at the anchor.
P5 (.11): This and the next pitch share the same thin and technical face climbing. They both are solid 5.11.
P6 (.11): See previous pitch. This one may be a touch harder.
P7 (5.9+): Bolted climbing up quartzite goes to the top of the wall. A small amount of natural gear may be required on this pitch.
This starts down and right of the obvious first pitch crack of Town Crier/Green Dragon, which is on a pedestal higher up the trail. Climb past two bolts to a stance at the base of the tough climbing.
A single 70m rope guarantees a no-frills descent. I'm pretty sure a 70m is required to rappel the first pitch with a single rope. A walk-off is also possible, but far less convenient.
All bolts except for P3 and possibly the final pitch. Take 12-14 QD's including a couple of longer slings. Gear to #3 Camalots (maybe #4) is needed for P3. All anchors are fixed and equipped for rappel. As of fall '06, the bolts all looked pretty good.
By Ben Gilkison
Aug 2, 2015
Is there a bolted anchor at the very top of Swim to start the raps?
Aug 6, 2015
The picture in le geedbook hints at a tree anchor. When you and I did the route, I can't recall if we did the last pitch and walked off or what. I'm guessing we rapped. I'm betting that with some extra webbing, a way could be found to rap off the top. Otherwise, a one rope rap route I'm sure about is Rise and Fall, although you have to find the top somehow and you may have to use a tree for the first rap on that one too.
By Mikey Schaefer
From: Terrebonne, OR
Aug 16, 2015
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b C0
I'm pretty sure I've gone down this route a few times. If my memory serves me correctly I think it is actually the easiest rap on the main wall. There is maybe one pitch you need to traverse a bit but it's not a big deal. If you don't mind walking a bit further rapping from the top of heaven's gate is also really easy and might actually be shorter