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Old Sandstone
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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Old School
Page Views: 546
Submitted By: Andy Hansen on Aug 21, 2011
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Another shot of Doug H. leading Swillbillies OldSS...


This is route #12 in Sven's Book. The route starts behind an oak tree to the right of Freaky Face. Move up the corner and crack onto a decent rest ledge. From there place good gear and then get into the crack to your left using good sidepulls and finger locks. A few tricky balancy moves up the crack lead to a good finger lock and mantle move onto a sloping ledge. Scramble to the top and shake yr ass like a drunken swillbilly.


10 feet to the right of Freaky Face


Standard Rack

Photos of Swillbillies Slideshow Add Photo
Doug H. on Swillbillies #2- OldSS DL.
Doug H. on Swillbillies #2- OldSS DL.
Doug H. leading Swillbillies at OldSS #1.  Great warm up for the start of the day's agenda.
Doug H. leading Swillbillies at OldSS #1. G...
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By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 26, 2011

Anybody else gonna sack up and tackle this one? Or are ya scaaarrreeeed?

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Sep 27, 2011

I TR'ed this thing when I first started climbing. I call choss pile! :P

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 27, 2011

Nice Paul! Way to get after it!

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Sep 27, 2011

Oh I got after it!

On a side note, my non-climbing friend also sent the route. But he used the tree behind the climb to stem LOL. Valid ascent?

By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Sep 27, 2011

I think Josh Schmale led this (I followed) a few weeks ago. Not a very impressive climb, but it has a few easy jams for the beginning crack climber.

By Tradoholic
Oct 9, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Very protectable and fun. A excellent first lead at The Lake. More like 5.6.

By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Fantastic route. Love the topout moves, definitely a great lead.

By Joe "Big Boi" Osterman
From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Oct 14, 2013

Awesome lead. Its super fun pulling into the crack and cool moves to the top.