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Swift Creek Spire
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Swift Creek Spire  


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Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Jul 29, 2007
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Swift Creek Spire from Swift Creek Road on a typic...

Description 

AKA Balanced Rock
This tower was first climbed in the 60's or 70's by a since extinct group known as the Mountaineering Club of Idaho Falls. For some reason they felt it was good to climb the route via a bolt ladder, leave a register on top, and then chop their ladder on the way down. I bleieve they dubbed it "Balanced Rock"

I propose that we give it a new name. No, we have no authority to do this, but then again we never had the authority to name it Balanced Rock. For the time being I'm gonna call it Swift Creek Spire. If you have another one that seems fitting, jot it down in here and perhaps, by the time a guidebook comes out to this area, it will stick. Balanced Rock is the most overused name in the country, and the Mountaineering Club of Idaho Falls should be embarrassed that they dubbed it so. The name is so cliched that there is another Balanced Rock in Star Valley, and I can think of three others just in Wyoming while a quick search on Mountain Project pulls up three more. Also, this is not a "Rock", its a tower or a spire, and there need be no "Balance" because the limestone strata is fixed in place. SO, I'm hereby submitting this as Swift Creek Spire (let the howling begin).



Getting There 

Follow the Swift Creek Canyon Road for a few miles from where it turns to dirt. The SPire is obvious on the left side of the road. From a parking area on the curve directly under the spire, walk back down the road about 50 yards. Thrash through the bushes up and left, then find a trail that traverses up (right) to the spire. The approach time is about 3 minutes if you find the trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 19.6 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Swift Creek Spire
north face routes

Hustler 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  WY : Swift Creek Canyon : Swift Creek Spire
AN excellent climb requiring hard overhanging pulls and delicate footwork. The route ascends the arete and face at the far right side of the north face. Its esiest to belay it from beneath the arete and not from the ledge....[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Comments on Swift Creek Spire Add Comment
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By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Jul 29, 2007
Kyle Mills and I were back here yesterday. I had forgotten how pretty the canyon is and how good these routes are. They are a bit sharp and there is the odd bit of gravely stuff that will come off cus we are the only people to have ever free climbed ont he tower (ergo each route has had a total of 4 ascents). This means there is almost no chalk, so flashing is gonna be hard. However, once the routes are climbed a few times they will be uber-classics.
By mtengaio
Jul 30, 2007
Way to go guys! We did some extensive scouting last summer and thought the Spire was certainly the place to start. The canyon is beautiful and will be a great destination once more routes are added. Right on.

-Matt