Login with Facebook
Right of the Roof
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atlas S 
Automatic Static S 
Ground Zero S 
La Bella Donna S 
Natural Selection S 
Salubrious S 
Survival of the Fittest S 
Sweet Surrender S 

Sweet Surrender 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2010
Season: fall, winter, spring
Page Views: 651
Submitted By: Steve Shiflett on Sep 18, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Sweet surrender

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>


Climb 3 bolts of easy (5.10-) terrain before coming to double underclings. A short and powerful crux leads to a good clipping jug. Pull the final bulge and finish on balancy climbing to the anchors


This route is where "the sweetest thing" used to be before it came down. Immediately left of Ground Zero and right of stranger than friction.


8 bolts to rap anchors

Comments on Sweet Surrender Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve Shiflett
From: Upland, Ca
Oct 29, 2010

I entered this route per the rating of the first ascentionist, but I think it's more likely 12a. The crux is only a couple moves, and they are not that bad.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Jan 13, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Crux is only a couple moves like what steve said, but I feel like individual crux move is harder then crux on other 12as at the quarry like megalomania/raging raptor
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!