Near the top of the perplexing P3. We knew we were...
Sweet Sunday Serenade is a Unaweep classic. It consists of three good pitches on excellent rock. The climbing is not very difficult but highly enjoyable. The climb is located on the right hand side of Sunday Wall and starts in a left-facing dihedral with a right-leaning hand crack. Just to the climbers right of the route is Catch a Wave, a bolted 5.11 face climb that shares the same anchor as the first pitch on S.S.S.
Pitch 1: Follow the crack up and right with a 5.8 move just off the ground. 135 feet to a bolted rappel anchor.
Pitch 2: Climb obvious corner up and left from the anchor with fingers and face moves 5.9 for 75 feet to a good ledge with bolted rappel anchor.
Pitch 3: Several options, The original line leaves from the West end of the large ledge above the belay and climbs a right angling crack for 25 feet to a ledge below a large flake. Pass the flake and climb a nice finger crack 5.9-. Near the top traverse slightly right and look for another bolted rappel anchor. 155 feet.
FYI: The second pitch that I describe here is actually a variation and is considered a different route called "Satisfaction Guaranteed" in KC Baum's book. I do guarantee satisfaction and highly recommend this variation.
The "variation" is the only apparent climbable line that we could see off this ledge atop P1. It is superb steep climbing, and quite solid 5.9. We finished with the large excellent dihedral for P3 (Sun Dancer), for a combination worthy of three stars.
By Matt Chan From: Boulder Jun 28, 2005 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
THE multi-pitch route in the canyon at the 5.9 level. I second what Charles said about the "variation" on the P2 being the only apparent line. After climbing the initial ~50 feet of 5.9, the line moves slightly right and continues at the same level until reaching a pedestal below the rap bolts. I found P3 to be pretty sustained after the large flake. Lots of fingery steep climbing that eases off in the last 20 feet. I was gassed at the end of the pitch for sure.
Not really sure why Baum and Green call this a [grade] III in their books, it certainly wasn't because of the approach (which took 15 minutes). Also, two raps (one from the top and the second from atop P2) with 60m doubles will get you to the ramp just right of the start of P1 with a little downclimbing. Dunno.
By Chris Perkins From: Avon, Colorado May 10, 2006 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
Is there a bolt on this route besides the anchors? I see it in the picture that describes the 2nd pitch var., but I never saw it. Route finding is tricky here. The way I read the book was the 3rd pitch took the left angling crack/flake with all the vegetation, but here it is described as the twin finger/hand cracks straight up. We took this cause it looked better. I thought this was Sun Dancer. Another party that was coming down thought the same thing and did the veggie var.
Kind of off topic, but after climbing, we went to go pump out on some boulders and ended up face to face with a black bear. So, be careful. They are not hibernating just yet.
By Alexander Nees From: Grand Junction, CO Sep 19, 2012 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
Very nice, moderate, granite multi-pitch climb... a rare bird! Worth it for the second pitch alone, which would be a standout even in Yosemite. The route-finding on the third pitch is weird: I had trouble finding a direct line from the Sundeck to the "correct" 5.9 crack left of the main Sun Dancer dihedral, and wandered back and forth a lot. Also, there's an optional short thin finger crack at the top of the 3rd pitch, just right of the main crack, that offers the best 10 feet of climbing on the whole route, at maybe 10a?