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Lisa Falls Buttress
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Sweet Spot 
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Where's Winky? 

Sweet Spot 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 557
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Mar 22, 2004
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Running it out to the top.

Description 

This climb starts the same as Lisa Falls Left. But it angles across the face to the ledge below the bolt. Clip this bolt with a runner, and continue up the new seam/ crack to the anchors.


Protection 

2 bolts are up top for an easy top-rope set-up, or for anchors. See Lisa Falls Left. 1 draw and a runner for the bolt. And I believe some small stuff can protect the upper crack.



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setting top rope
setting top rope
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By Nathan Fisher
Sep 26, 2004

Again, a hole about 15 feet off the ground showed promise, but didn't pan out. The bolt with 2 runners and a brass nut just above the bolt was all the gear I could place on this one. Very Runout.

By Michael Haines
Aug 14, 2013

Due to rockfall, the placement Nathan mentioned can now be practiced from the ground-- this route is about 10 feet shorter now. Also, the bolt in the description is smashed flat.