Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Stonewall (aka Airmen Peak)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(01) Chicken Crack T 
(02) Pin There, Done That? T 
(03) Squeeze Me T 
(04) Pardon Me While I Stem T 
(05) Stoner Crack T 
(06) Pagoda Crack T 
(07) Cody Wasn't Here T 
(08) Flyboys T 
(09) Chimney Route T 
(10) Stembrosia T 
(11) A Comedy of Scarers T 
(12) Oh Yeah, That Snake! T 
Sweet Sarah T 
Why Wouldn'tya? T 

Sweet Sarah 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: JFx, AS, JMw 3/2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 201
Submitted By: JMayhew on Jul 8, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
First pitch roof move

Description 

1. A bolt protects the first move which leads up to the crack that runs out the right side of the overhang above. The OW awaits at the lip of the roof. Belay at the horizontal below a short bulge with another OW. (5.10 110')

2. Head up and right into main chimney. Shortly after you get wedged, traverse to the outside and clip a bolt that protects the rest of the chimney that gradually eases. The final rampy corner is a little trickier than it looks. Belay from 2 bolts at the end of the corner. (5.8+ 110')

DESCENT: Rap 200' to the ground from the 2 bolts with double 60M ropes. If you only take a single rope you can downclimb the 4th class gully mentioned below.

Location 

Near the right end of the South Face of Stonewall (See approach picture). Several hundred feet left of a 3rd/4th class gully that leads to the top.

Protection 

Stoppers, doubles to #2, #3 thru #6 (We didn't have one but a #7 or equivalent Big Bro would be even better than the #6!)

Double 60M ropes (if you rap.)


Photos of Sweet Sarah Slideshow Add Photo
The route from the approach slope.
BETA PHOTO: The route from the approach slope.
Belaying the OW
Belaying the OW

Comments on Sweet Sarah Add Comment
Show which comments
By JFox
From: Flagstaff
Jul 9, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Real good route. a little over bolted. But still a good, trad, offwidthy, exposedy, kind of back country adventurous route