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Sweet Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atomic FireBall S 
Butterfinger S 
Cracker Jack T,S 
Everlasting Gobstopper S 
Good and Plenty S 
Hot Tamale S 
Jaw Breaker S 
Kit Kat S 
Lemonhead S 
Mounds S 
Now and Later S 
Pay Day S 
Peanut Brittle S 
Pop Rocks S 
Rick Krispie Treat S 
Taste the Rainbow S 
Thingamajig S 
Whatchamacallit S 
Zagnut S 

Sweet Rock  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 24,420
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mike Diesen on Jan 7, 2009
Forecast:
Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue
Thunderstorm
81° | 60°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
77° | 61°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
78° | 61°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
78° | 60°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
77° | 60°
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Description 

Mostly Sport climbing just before Isle of You Wall. This area is being developed by Mike and Amy Diesen, Daryl Allen and Angel Mangual-Guadalupe. Great routes and well bolted. A 60 meter rope is required for most routes.

Here is a list of the routes so far from left to right:
Good and Plenty 5.7
Peanut Brittle 5.9+
Rick Krispie Treat 5.12
Cracker Jack 5.10c/d
Everlasting Gobstopper 5.10c/d
Mounds 5.10-
Hot Tamale 5.10b/c
Jawbreaker 5.10a/b
Pop Rocks 5.10a
Thingamajig 5.9+
Watchamacallit 5.8
Kit Kat 5.7+
Atomic Fireball 5.10a
Now and Later 5.10b
Pay Day 5.9+
Unknown Left of Zagnut 5.11+ R
Zagnut 5.11b
Lemmonhead 5.11a
Taste the Rainbow 5.8 (around back side)

The rock quality is pretty good and the loose stuff is getting cleaned up but this is a new area and there is still some loose stuff. MAKE SURE YOUR BELAYER WEARS A HELMET.

Getting There 

After turning on the spur road to Isle of You it is the obvious 140 foot rock on the right.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.6 miles from here

19 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',8],['5.11',3],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sweet Rock:
Whatchamacallit   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 140'   
Kit Kat   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Taste the Rainbow   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 70'   
Peanut Brittle   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Thingamajig   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Pay Day   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Pop Rocks   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Jaw Breaker   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 140'   
Hot Tamale   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 140'   
Cracker Jack   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Everlasting Gobstopper   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Lemonhead   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Zagnut   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Butterfinger   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Browse More Classics in Sweet Rock

Featured Route For Sweet Rock
Pucker up!

Lemonhead 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  AZ : Cochise Stronghold : ... : Sweet Rock
First line right of Zagnut. Route starts up an easy scramble past one bolt up to a ledge. Clip up from there and pull over the overhung lemony goodness to a well-earned, one hand rest. Either go the more direct left way up [left] from there or smear up the slab out to the right, through a small dihedral [crux] and arrive at the anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of Sweet Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Going up on gear only...that being said, this is a good trad route as well. (5.7 G&P)
Going up on gear only...that being said, this is a...
Daryl and I at the base of Good n Plenty and Peanut Brittle
Daryl and I at the base of Good n Plenty and Peanu...
Sweet Rock, Cochise Stronghold.  Good and Plenty, the 5.7, starts on the left.
Sweet Rock, Cochise Stronghold. Good and Plenty, ...
The sweet rock crew (Mike, Amy, Angel and Daryl).  Thank you for the pink go away cake and the doll
The sweet rock crew (Mike, Amy, Angel and Daryl). ...
Sweet Rock from the main road.
Sweet Rock from the main road.
At the top of one of my favorite routes Pay Day.
At the top of one of my favorite routes Pay Day.
Sweet Rock
Sweet Rock
Hattie slaying pop rocks.
Hattie slaying pop rocks.
Sweet Rock topo (OLD VERSION-USE MORE CURRENT VERSION!!)
BETA PHOTO: Sweet Rock topo (OLD VERSION-USE MORE CURRENT VERS...
Sweet Rock
Sweet Rock
Sweet Rock topo - current as of 28Apr2011
BETA PHOTO: Sweet Rock topo - current as of 28Apr2011
Rappelling down that fall.  Don't know what climbing route that is?
Rappelling down that fall. Don't know what climbi...
Sweet rock
Sweet rock
Rappelling down the fall.
Rappelling down the fall.

Comments on Sweet Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 27, 2013
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jan 15, 2009
Would like to 2nd Mike's comment about the helmet. Everyone standing around at the base of a route where someone is climbing should have a helmet on. This is good form anywhere but should practiced here in particular. The area is very new so expect some debris. We've worked hard to pull off the obvious (and some not so obvious) meteors but more are sure to come; particularly as you move to the routes to the middle and to the right.
By Brigette
From: Seattle, WA
Jan 26, 2009
Sweet Rock, indeed. Great job Mike and company! The new routes are fun, fun, fun. Good range of climbs, with something for everyone.

Daryl - Taking your advice on the helmet, but I've just got to point out the photo above of you and Angel standing under a climber *bareheaded*. :) Do as I say, not as I do?
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jan 26, 2009
Exactly! Ya gotta be tough when you're dumb! :) You're right though.. I should have had the bucket on.
By Angel Mangual
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jan 26, 2009
Bad teacher! Not a good example. haha
By Angel Mangual
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Feb 9, 2009
What sup guys!! Men I am stuck in Kuwait waiting to go to Afghanistan. I met this dude from SF but civilian and he is a climber and had climb in Afghanistan. He said the climbing was great and of course no body has really climb it. Men, If I can I will do it. Men do I miss it. Oh by the way they sell Rock Ice magazine over here awesome!
By Larry
From: SoAZ
Mar 2, 2009
What's the sun exposure at this rock? AM sun or PM sun?
By Mike Diesen
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Mar 3, 2009
It's northwest facing so gets pm sun.
By Mike Dudley
From: Vegas
Mar 30, 2009
"Then I saw them gadgets you all put in the rock..."
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Apr 6, 2009
That's right! Gadgets were installed instead of bolts/hangers out at sweet rock. The term 'hangers' is to be ritually replaced with 'gadgets' while climbing here. =)
By Angel Mangual
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Apr 15, 2009
Especially adding gadgets on it :) By the way, STOP! making more routes...I am getting jealouse damn it...Leave some some for me
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 26, 2009
Great routes! Thanks to all the FAs for their hard work.

I would recommend carrying 18 or so quickdraws as most routes are long and well bolted.

My personal favorites were "Pay Day" and "Hot Tamale".
By erik hamilton
Apr 28, 2009
project at sweet rock just left of cracker jack. has three bolts on it at present time.very hard climbing on great rock will.
By Boodge Nomchompski
Sep 13, 2009
Lots of stuff still coming off here - highly recommend helmet wear, especially for the belayer. Fun routes that will clean up nicely as people get on them more. Some holds will still come off in your hand (or under your feet), so be wary of that as you head up!!
Regardless, go climb them - the 5 second approach is worth it! :)
Mostly shady until about 2 pm as of now, which makes for pleasant temperatures.
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Sep 17, 2009
Hey Primo. I heard through a friend that someone in your group got tagged pretty bad deflecting a rock while belaying on Mounds. Very sorry to hear about the accident. I hope it wasn't too serious and that she's able to heal and climb very soon. d
By Ryan Suedkamp
Oct 3, 2009
Thanks for sharing all the info for Sweet Rock. Some people aren't so quick to share.
By Marty
Oct 29, 2009
How tall are those routes? Can you do them with a 50m or 60m rope?
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Nov 1, 2009
Pretty sure a lot of these routes are 60m rope only.
By Angel Mangual
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Dec 13, 2009
HEY Guy!!!! Finally I will be back on February for a couple of weeks. I am looking forward to go climbing as a group again like old times YEAH!!! Miss you ALL!!!
By dunc shep
Dec 14, 2009
Sweets rot your teeth!!!

James H.tasting the rainbow on the sunny side, belay thankfully had a hard hat on to deflect the fallout of fruit flavours!
James H.tasting the rainbow on the sunny side, belay thankfully had a hard hat on to deflect the fallout of fruit flavours!
By Justin York
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 23, 2010
Anyone know about the new route between Peanut Brittle and Cracker Jack?
By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 17, 2010
Nice Job Mike, Amy, Daryl and Angel! I finally got out here to climb. Had a lot of fun. Good routes, bolts in good spots, not any kitty litter to speak of. Had a fun day with a friend who needed some easy ten or less climbing and we had fun. Thanks for the hard work. Also did a thing called Milk Duds. Not sure if it has been done as I don't see it posted up. Probably 12b or so but a bit wandery. I would move some bolts around and force it farther right as it keeps you off the 9 and ten longer. Worth doing. Thanks again. Eric
I think this is Milk Duds.
I think this is Milk Duds.
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Mar 17, 2011
Thanks for the kind words Eric and nice send on the 12 alt start. Sweet Rock was absolutely packed this past weekend. I've never seen that many people there before. We stopped in for a bit on Saturday and met some really nice out of towners and lots of folks from Tucson as well. Those routes are cleaning up nice and with another season or two will be even better. Thanks again for the feedback! d
By Matt Riddle
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Aug 30, 2012
We encountered this critter at the bottom of Good n' Plenty on 8/25/12. My non-climbing friend then scooped it up to move it away from the crag, but he dropped it off in the neighborhood of Payday. I turned around just in time to realize he didn't drop it off far enough. Oh, well, there's your PSA. I'm sure he's still around.
We encountered this critter at the bottom of Good n' Plenty on 8/25/12. My non-climbing friend then scooped it up to move it away from the crag, but he dropped it off in the neighborhood of Payday. I turned around just in time to realize he didn't drop it off far enough. Oh, well, there's your PSA. I'm sure he's still around.
By mikehilbert
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 27, 2013
Whether you are climbing or belaying here, PLEASE WEAR A HELMET! Despite the heavy traffic this crag gets, loose rock flies off of every climb like crazy. Please do yourself and the rest of the climbing community a favor by doming up.