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Sweet Polly Purebred 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Smith, as a sport route 2005. Parts were climbed previously by others using trad gear and pins
Page Views: 4,223
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 23, 2006

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Leesa negotiating the hanging corner on a mostly d...

Description 

Polly Purebred used to be a runout and neglected trad climb until a retrobolting modernized it a few years ago. It's proximity to the most popular 5.10 at Rumney (Underdog) guarantees heavy traffic.

Easy juggy climbing leads to a rest ledge. Put a long draw on the bolt off the ledge and launch into the overhanging crux (previously "protected" by a shady pin). This crux can be baffling until the correct sequence is found. Layback up the wonderful hanging corner. Slabby moves give way to another crux below the anchors.

Welcome to the 21st century Polly, we're all glad you're here.


Protection 

Bomber eyebolts.



Photos of Sweet Polly Purebred Slideshow Add Photo
Blake on Polly purebred
Blake on Polly purebred
RB.
RB.
jeff post crux on polly
jeff post crux on polly
Brian takes his well deserved rest in the nook on Polly Purebread... He needed to get warm it was a friggin cold day...
Brian takes his well deserved rest in the nook on ...
nicole in the nice lock
nicole in the nice lock
Yea, this route is fun! Go Nick
Yea, this route is fun! Go Nick
RB some mo'.
RB some mo'.
Brian Winslow making the clip before the steep part of Polly Purebred...
Brian Winslow making the clip before the steep par...
jeff in the funkiness up high on the route
jeff in the funkiness up high on the route
Brian sticking the fingerlock on the lower crux...nice work... First time sending the route and the weatherman said it was 17 degrees...
Brian sticking the fingerlock on the lower crux......
Comments on Sweet Polly Purebred Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 4, 2013
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 9, 2006

FA trad version (alternative start to Underdog): Mark Sprague (eedit- It sounds like Bradley White did some version of this earlier , when the big block was still there)
FA sport version (added the top): Chris Smith

Jeez, I thought it protected great. I put gear in. The bolts are very welcome though, especially as you can now do the top. I pulled a refrigerator sized block out of the alcove before climbing it.

By L. Hamilton
Nov 10, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree, the old trad version had fine protection, and was "something different" amidst all the clip-ups. On the other hand, the new bolted finish is better.

If Rumney were a less specialized area that could still tolerate mixed routes, Polly Purebred might have been a good one: bolts where needed, especially on the finish, but no retrobolts at the overhang where solid trad gear can be placed.

Some of the other old moderates would likewise be more fun, but not necessarily more dangerous, if you had to carry and place a bit of gear to lead them.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 29, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

i like that it is now a nice independant line that gives me another warm up... and it does get me quite warm... i too would be happy to place some gear (people who know me know i love placing gear)...

on a side note this line feels 5.10c to me most days (not the 10b the guide book suggests)...

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Feb 8, 2009

I was climbing at Main Cliff and I noticed that the left anchor bolt on Polly Purebread is kind of messed up. It's loose and it clearly flexes in the hole. I didn't have a wrench with me to tighten it, but I'm not sure if that would do the trick. It looks like it might need to be replaced.

Be aware when you are cleaning the anchor.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jun 13, 2009

Any word on the condition of this anchor now?

By gitarooman
Aug 24, 2009

I was just up on this climb on August 20 '09. The left anchor bolt is still in bad condition. I was able to EASILY wiggle the bolt up and down, and wouldnt be surprised if I could pull it with a little force. I dont think that a wrench would do any good at this point. The right anchor seemed solid. Just be aware.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 5, 2010

The anchor bolts seemed fine last weekend.

By Todd Anderson
Jun 6, 2011

I didn't notice any glaring problems with the anchor today, but confess I wasn't actively looking for them, not having seen this page before.

On a side note, my friend (whom I was belaying) somehow missed the bolt on the first crux, and by the time he was at the next bolt he had the rope wrapped around his leg so he would have flipped over if he fell (I yelled at him about the rope, but I didn't see the crux bolt either). We didn't realize there was another bolt there until he finished the climb.

I guess the take-home message is that if Polly seems run-out, you're doing something wrong.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Sep 24, 2012

I felt like this was runout at the crux... I ended up climbing in to the nook rest above the crux, terribly out of breath (apparently I don't breath when I climb hard), and then reaching around the corner to clip my next bolt. I don't even want to think about the fall that would have been had I stayed out of the nook and fell at the next clip.... But then again, I am a giant pansy when I lead, so maybe it's not really run out.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 24, 2012

More common is to fall while trying to get into the notch, which is a perfectly clean fall. Wedging yourself into the notch will give you a comfortable no hands rest. It's also quite easy to use a knee bar in that area too. I thought protection was right where you'd want it.

By S. Neoh
May 4, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Both anchors seem fine today.
Such a fine route. Good amount of exposure just after the crux and before the comfy ledge. The slab above was surprisingly technical for me with some holds "facing the wrong way". Nicely bolted, to be expected for a Smitty route.

By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA
Aug 3, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Sweet Polly gets a 5.10 b/c rating in the 2009 guidebook. That seems a bit low to me. Moving left around the roof (particularly that l-o-n-g lefthanded reach for the vertical crack hidden around the corner) seemed more like solid 5.10c or even 5.10d to me. Getting around and over the roof on Polly (the crux) seemed a lot harder than getting over the crux bulge on Armed and Dangerous (5.10b). While top-roping, I backed off once and fell once on Polly before I finally was able to get up into the nook (and then, totally pumped, I fell off again). Does anybody else out there think that this one is underrated? Or am I just too weak?

By S. Neoh
Aug 3, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Nick, I am short (5'5") and that long move always give me pause. That said, I feel that SPP is as hard as Millennium Falcon but a tad easier than Peer Pressure. The route that I feel under graded is Romancing The Stone. It is always a struggle for me.

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Aug 4, 2013

Hey Nick,
sounds like you've had a rad tour of Rumney's classics recently. right on. The way you describe doing the crux on SPP indeed sounds hard. I think with some refinement through that crux you'd find it more appropriate at the grade. Similarly, there is an in obvious way to do the final upper section that makes it casual. I'll spare the inter webs my beta spray, but if you want an idea of another way to get through that crux drop me a PM. If you hang out at main cliff long enough I'm sure you'll be able to witness some better beta as well. best.

By Harrison Harb
From: Portland, Or
Dec 4, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

this and Know Ethics might be the best 10's at Rumney. Very high on the flow factor.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Dec 4, 2013

Remember, Nick is quite old..even older than me .

By S. Neoh
Dec 4, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

How is that even possible? :)

No worries, Nick, we past-our-prime kind still find ways to get up steep Rumney routes .... but only because we are crafty. :) Eric, Coach Paul, SteveA, even Al(!) still show up and not embarrass ourselves too badly.