Donstamos. Thanks, Richard. I will be leaving some...
With apologies to Harald and Diane, this fully bolted route turned out to be an excellent addition to the Mill Creek Crag. Start at the base of an incipient seam on porcelain white, bullet hard, granite. Climbing on this gently overhanging wall is continuous and interesting throughout. Difficulties ease back to 5.11 after the fourth clip, but a hard move lurks right at the anchor. The crux climbing is in the first four clips, and two options exist. One can chase the seam directly (hard) or power out right to a right-facing dihedral (better and a couple of letter grades easier). I thought that the climbing on Sweet Petite was superb, a real kick to solve, and well worth the effort.
NB: We jumped on SP at the end of June on a very hot day, and the start felt much harder than when we climbed it earlier in the year. Clearly, the good friction obtained in cooler weather makes a big difference on this fine grained granite.
This route is 100 feet right of the Roof Rack. There is a newly cairned trail immediately across from the pullout used to access the Mill Creek Crag.
Nine draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
Nine draws in 60 ft seems like a lot of steel; however, there are couple of places where a fall could result in a nasty encounter. Sweet Petite is bolted so that there should be no need to stick-clip the start.
Very fine route. The rock quality deteriorates in the top third, but it doesn't detract from the overall goodness. Staying right for the boulder problem at the bottom seems the only logical approach and is super-fun. Hang on for a burly finish until the final jug (above the anchor).
The two blocks above the chains were pulled off Sunday (July 13, 2014). I don't think they were ever a problem, but tagging the last hold above the chains feels a bit more comforting now. Pulling these off took double crowbars, both extended, and jimmying some rocks in the gaps just to tip them up enough to use the second crowbar to lever them off the cliff.