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Mill Creek Crag
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Sweet Petite 

Sweet Petite 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: RMWright, Dr. ABS, October, 2012
New Route: Yes
Season: Well into October
Page Views: 316
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 22, 2012
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Donstamos. Thanks, Richard. I will be leaving some...

Description 

With apologies to Harald and Diane, this fully bolted route turned out to be an excellent addition to the Mill Creek Crag. Start at the base of an incipient seam on porcelain white, bullet hard, granite. Climbing on this gently overhanging wall is continuous and interesting throughout. Difficulties ease back to 5.11 after the fourth clip, but a hard move lurks right at the anchor. The crux climbing is in the first four clips, and two options exist. One can chase the seam directly (hard) or power out right to a right-facing dihedral (better and a couple of letter grades easier). I thought that the climbing on Sweet Petite was superb, a real kick to solve, and well worth the effort.


Location 

This route is 100 feet right of the Roof Rack. There is a newly cairned trail immediately across from the pullout used to access the Mill Creek Crag.


Protection 

Nine draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 22, 2012

Nine draws in 60 ft seems like a lot of steel; however, there are couple of places where a fall could result in a nasty encounter. Sweet Petite is bolted so that there should be no need to stick-clip the start.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Aug 4, 2013

Looks like a great line!

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 5, 2013

The rock is terrific, bullet hard, and clean.