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Sweet Peas 

Sweet Peas 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 697
Submitted By: Richard Fernandez on Jul 8, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Description 

Crux is up high where it gets very steep and feet get thinner. A very pumpy route with shake-outs, stays very overhung to the chains. The exit moves can be intimidating, until you snag the "hidden" side-pull(s). Good holds through-out.


Location 

Second route from the left in the cave.


Protection 

10 +- draws and biners at the top.



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By the schmuck
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 13, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Downrated to 11d and called a warm-up in recent guide, this thing is a long enduro haul with one very good rest up high. No move is harder than 10+...and then it throws a V4 crux at you right before you clip the chains. If rated on last 2 moves, this is a solid 12- in my opinion.

By CHopwood
From: Anchorage, AK
Aug 19, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I agree. Jugs appear every time you start to get really pumped and there is the coolest resting holds I've found in Maple, right before the height dependent crux finish. Pegg's new book still gives it 12a while Knezek's says 11d. It felt a lot harder than the other 11d's I did. Regardless, it is amazingly fun! 5.12-

By dbrown
Aug 21, 2012
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Great climb! I thought that this was the same grade as Groundwork at The Minimum Crag. 11c or 11d. Fun climb with harder routes to send to the right after doing this one.

By SMR
Sep 27, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Grading might be height dependent. If shorter (I am 5'1") the crux at the top is reachy and much harder than any other 11d I have done. So I agree with 12a.