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Sweet Little Hollywood Flake 

Sweet Little Hollywood Flake 

5.8+ R

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
FA: 
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Aug 18, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Matt Clark into easier terrain on SLHF, Jazz Dome.

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Description 

Begin near a bushy evergreen below a ledge/bowl about 40' off the ground. Climb past two bolts to the ledge, exit the bowl past a third bolt and continue on easier (but totally runout) ground to the top.

The rock quality is less than desirable on this one, but the hardest climbing is in the best rock.


Location 

This is the leftmost reported route on the wall. It is just right of the fence line and starts near a bushy evergreen about five feet off the ground.


Protection 

Three buttonhead bolts and bolt anchors. The anchor is three buttonheads (which look good for what they are) and one newer beefier bolt). Leave the trad gear in your pack. The only place to put in any gear is under the hollow and crumbly flake below the third bolt.



Photos of Sweet Little Hollywood Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Locker on "Little Hollywood Flake". <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Locker on "Little Hollywood Flake".
Photo by Blitz...


Matt at the flake. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Matt at the flake.
Photo by Blitzo.



Comments on Sweet Little Hollywood Flake Add Comment
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By James
From: Lakewood, CO
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.9- PG13

There is a decent runout between the second and third bolts (perhaps 25 feet). I was able to place a #1 Camalot in a crack on a ledge approximately halfway between the bolts. I used a stone to clean out the dirt. Felt much better knowing I would not ground if I fell off the loose rock in the dished out area going to the third bolt. You can also get a #3 Camalot in a flake to the right about 10 feet below the third bolt, but the #1 is better.