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 ADVANCED
The Right Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Wonderful Life T 
American Caesar T 
Aquarius Rising T 
Barbarian Rising T 
Bootlegger, The T 
Brother From Another Mother AKA B-FAM S 
Brother Of Fortune T 
Consensual Hex T 
Crescent Moon T 
Donald Duckin It T,S 
Dr. Octagon T 
Flavor of the Day T 
Full Steam Ahead T 
Harder They Come, The T 
Helicopter Exodus T 
Kindness T 
Labor Day T 
Locks of Dread T 
Natural Enhancement T 
No Feelings T 
No Utopia T 
Parting Gift T 
Proud Father T 
Resurrection T 
Rice Paddy Ambush T 
Smilin' Jay T 
Snap Happy S 
Soldier of Fortune T 
Soul Market T 
Starry Night T 
Sweet Dreams T 
Tainted Love T 
Trident, The T 
Turn Down, For What? T 
Wasp Whisperer T 

Sweet Dreams 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dan Foster 2001/2002
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 723
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jun 24, 2009

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Description 

Sweet Dreams is a Dan Foster original that is guaranteed to wake you up, and many talented climbers have found themselves in a nightmarish position on this line- runout over small, dubious gear.

Sweet Dreams starts to the right of Flavor of the Day. Climb up large open dihedral passing interesting terrain with sparse and varied gear. Once you arrive at the tight, ever steepening stembox expect thin gear and tight stemming. This may be the one hard line at the Waterfall that suits a shorter frame. Sporty. Good luck.

Location 

A good ways down the right side of the Right Wall. To the right of Flavor of the Day, and to the left of No Utopia/Natural Enhancement.

Protection 

Small/medium TCUs, small/medium wires, lowe balls.


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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 13, 2010

This thing has seen some high class onsight attempt upset! A stunning line, though you better watch your back!
By Abel Jones
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 27, 2011
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R

Better bring sliders... small cams and nuts won't do it... safely.
By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 31, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R

After repeating this route, if it doesnt warrant an R rating, then nothing at the Waterfall does. Dave and I cleaned this line and worked out the moves on a couple TR burns, but an onsight of this would be truly impressive and bold. Probably easier now after Dave Bloom and I cleaned it up a bit.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 6, 2013

Awesome work on the leads Joel. I followed Dan Foster up this line on two occasions, and was impressed by the lack of good gear. Though he did it on command, this line may have even made him sweat a little. It's a long R for sure in my book. The kind of deal where you want to create a web of gear that in the case of a fall, some pieces will blow and hopefully slow you down enough for the better pieces to catch you. Real deal for sure.