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Routes in 3. The Right Wall
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A Wonderful Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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American Caesar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Aquarius Rising T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Barbarian Rising T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bootlegger, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Brother from Another Mother S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Brother of Fortune T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Burgermeister, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Consensual Hex T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Cookin’ with Gas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crescent Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dark Sky T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Death Spiral T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Donald Duckin It T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Dr. Octagon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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East Coast Fist Bump T 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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East Coast Fist Bump OG Variation T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Flavor of the Day T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Full Steam Ahead T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Harder they Come, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Helicopter Exodus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Jr Bacon Burgermeister T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Kindness T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Labor Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Locks of Dread T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Natural Enhancement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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No Feelings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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No Utopia T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Over the Moon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Parting Gift T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Proud Bootlegger T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Proud Father T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Resurrection T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rice Paddy Ambush T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Smilin' Jay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Snap Happy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Soldier of Fortune T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Soul Market T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Special Child T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Starry Night T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sweet Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Tainted Love T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Three Sheets to the Wind T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Trident, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Turn Down, For What? T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Vietnam Vacation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wasp Whisperer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Dan Foster 2001 |
| Page Views: | 2,603 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Jun 24, 2009 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Sweet Dreams is a Dan Foster original that is guaranteed to wake you up. Many talented climbers have found themselves in a nightmarish position on this line being runout over small, dubious gear while figuring out 5.12 cranks.
Sweet Dreams starts to the right of Flavor of the Day. Climb up large open dihedral passing interesting terrain with sparse and varied gear. Once you arrive at the tight, ever steepening stembox expect thin gear and tight stemming. This may be the one hard line at the Waterfall that suits a shorter frame. Engaging. Good luck.
The route saw some cleaning post FA. Sounds like gear options opened up.
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