Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Jackrabbit Buttress
Select Route:
Black Pearl, The 
Blind Spot 
Cottontail 
Crazy Horse 
Degunker 
Don't Touch That in Front of Grandma 
Ernest Stemmingway 
Geronimo 
Juggernaut 
MysterZ 
Rose Hips 
Saddle Up 
Smooth Operator 
Stuffed Animals on Prozac 
Swine Tasting 

Smooth Operator 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 700', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Joanne & Jorge Urioste, Kevin Campbell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,316
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jun 23, 2008
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
The start of the second pitch of Smooth Operator wit...

Description 

This route has also been known as "Sweet Crude."

Pitch 1: Climb the chimney and corner to a sloping belay stance below a bulge. (5.8, 120’)

Pitch 2: An exposed diagonal traverse leads up and left through the bulge, with lots of air below, but good pro. When you’re back in balance, a sloping traverse leads left about 30 feet. Now go straight up a steep jamcrack to a roomy ledge. (5.9, 110’)

Pitch 3: Poorly protected face climbing for 30 feet leads to a chimney, which is followed by moderate moves up the continuing crack system, to a comfortable ledge where the crack system splits. (5.8, 190’)

Pitch 4: After an exposed move right, jam a steep crack for 20 feet. About thirty feet of exposed, varnished face lead right and up to the base of a prominent, black, left-facing corner, where a hanging belay is established. (5.9, 70’)

Pitch 5: Climb straight up the face and corner, then up easier terrain to a belay ledge. (5.8, 160’)

Pitch 6: 200 feet of class 4 lead to the unroping spot.

Descent: Go west towards the Brownstone Wall, staying low across the slabs, then descend Juniper Canyon.


Location 

This route ascends the Jackrabbit Buttress, starting in a corner about 100 feet left of Ernest Stemmingway. To reach the start of the climb, one may go uphill along the base of the cliff from ES, or go halfway up the steep dirt portion of the Juniper Canyon approach trail before cutting back toward the base of the cliff. Both ways are brushy.


Protection 

A standard rack up to a 3 or 4 inch cam.



Photos of Smooth Operator Slideshow Add Photo
<a href='/v/smooth-operator/106189708'>Smooth Operator</a> p5.
BETA PHOTO: Smooth Operator p5.
The line of Sweet Crude (aka Smooth Operator) on the south face o the Jackrabbit Buttress in Juniper Canyon.
BETA PHOTO: The line of Sweet Crude (aka Smooth Operator) on t...
Gigi on <a href='/v/smooth-operator/106189708'>Smooth Operator</a>, p3.
Gigi on Smooth Operator, p3.
Brett and Anne above pitch 4, <a href='/v/smooth-operator/106189708'>Smooth Operator</a>
Brett and Anne above pitch 4, Smooth Operator
Brett belayed by Anne. <a href='/v/smooth-operator/106189708'>Smooth Operator</a>, p2.
Brett belayed by Anne. Smooth Operator, p2.
Final pitches
BETA PHOTO: Final pitches
Brett cruises lower <a href='/v/smooth-operator/106189708'>Smooth Operator</a>. First three pitches visable.
Brett cruises lower Smooth Operator. First three pit...
Brett on pitch 1 of <a href='/v/smooth-operator/106189708'>Smooth Operator</a>.
Brett on pitch 1 of Smooth Operator.
Upper pitches. Belays 3, 4, and 5 marked.
BETA PHOTO: Upper pitches. Belays 3, 4, and 5 marked.
The start of <a href='/v/smooth-operator/106189708'>Smooth Operator</a>. Anne, and Brett: pitch 1.
The start of Smooth Operator. Anne, and Brett: pitch...
Comments on Smooth Operator Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -