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Jackrabbit Buttress
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Smooth Operator 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 700', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Joanne & Jorge Urioste, Kevin Campbell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,561
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jun 23, 2008

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The start of the second pitch of Smooth Operator w...

Description 

This route has also been known as "Sweet Crude."

Pitch 1: Climb the chimney and corner to a sloping belay stance below a bulge. (5.8, 120’)

Pitch 2: An exposed diagonal traverse leads up and left through the bulge, with lots of air below, but good pro. When you’re back in balance, a sloping traverse leads left about 30 feet. Now go straight up a steep jamcrack to a roomy ledge. (5.9, 110’)

Pitch 3: Poorly protected face climbing for 30 feet leads to a chimney, which is followed by moderate moves up the continuing crack system, to a comfortable ledge where the crack system splits. (5.8, 190’)

Pitch 4: After an exposed move right, jam a steep crack for 20 feet. About thirty feet of exposed, varnished face lead right and up to the base of a prominent, black, left-facing corner, where a hanging belay is established. (5.9, 70’)

Pitch 5: Climb straight up the face and corner, then up easier terrain to a belay ledge. (5.8, 160’)

Pitch 6: 200 feet of class 4 lead to the unroping spot.

Descent: Go west towards the Brownstone Wall, staying low across the slabs, then descend Juniper Canyon.

Location 

This route ascends the Jackrabbit Buttress, starting in a corner about 100 feet left of Ernest Stemmingway. To reach the start of the climb, one may go uphill along the base of the cliff from ES, or go halfway up the steep dirt portion of the Juniper Canyon approach trail before cutting back toward the base of the cliff. Both ways are brushy.

Protection 

A standard rack up to a 3 or 4 inch cam.


Photos of Smooth Operator Slideshow Add Photo
Smooth Operator p5.
BETA PHOTO: Smooth Operator p5.
The line of Sweet Crude (aka Smooth Operator) on t...
BETA PHOTO: The line of Sweet Crude (aka Smooth Operator) on t...
Gigi on Smooth Operator, p3.
Gigi on Smooth Operator, p3.
Brett and Anne above pitch 4, Smooth Operator
Brett and Anne above pitch 4, Smooth Operator
Brett belayed by Anne. Smooth Operator, p2.
Brett belayed by Anne. Smooth Operator, p2.
Final pitches
BETA PHOTO: Final pitches
Brett cruises lower Smooth Operator. First three p...
Brett cruises lower Smooth Operator. First three p...
Brett on pitch 1 of Smooth Operator.
Brett on pitch 1 of Smooth Operator.
Upper pitches. Belays 3, 4, and 5 marked.
BETA PHOTO: Upper pitches. Belays 3, 4, and 5 marked.
The start of Smooth Operator. Anne, and Brett: pit...
The start of Smooth Operator. Anne, and Brett: pit...

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By dave custer
Nov 30, 2014

Smooth Operator is probably the most straight foward of the climbs left of Myster Z if gaining the top of Jackrabbit Buttress is the objective (as a climbing start to reach the Brownstone Wall). Pitches 1-5 can be done in 3 pitches, though requires some attention to rope drag. Double 60s will (barely) bring you back to the base of the climb from the top of pitch 5 in two bolted rappels. It is easy to toss the ropes into an unseen, rope-eating crack from the top of pitch 5.