Sweeping Beauty 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | FFA September 2005 Kevin Evanson, Jaime Bohle |
| Season: | Dry |
| Submitted By: | Colin Parker on Aug 2, 2011 |
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Description This route starts left of Carrots for Everyone to the right of a large block that is about 25' off the ground (the top of this block is the 'Room for a View' ledge). The section up to the ledge is a bit blocky and dirty but pretty easy terrain. Above the ledge it takes the line of bolts on a slightly overhanging face for an additional 60 feet to a pair of bolted anchors. This section is consistent, pumpy and some of the best 5.10 climbing at Ozone, IMO.
Location See Above
Protection 8 QD's. There are no bolts until above the ledge so you may want to bring a 1-2" piece or two for the start.
| Comments on Sweeping Beauty |
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By another Chad
Aug 2, 2011
rating: 5.10b
| One can connect the first half of Dirty Jugs with Sweeping Beauty, making a fully bolted route. Like many of the climbs at Ozone, a 50m rope will not get you to the ground.
Chad |
By Kev
Aug 22, 2011
| This climb is 10.b if not 10.a. I am not sure who is upgrading them. |
By another Chad
Jun 8, 2012
rating: 5.10b
| Kevin, you're a stud if you think this thing is a 5.10a!
Chad |
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Aug 29, 2012
rating: 5.10b
| The only committing move getting up to the ledge cannot be protected with anything nearby. Even if you did, it would have to be with a long runner, or the rope drag would be terrible. I would second the idea of doing the first half of Dirty Jugs as the primary approach for this route. |
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