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Lisa Falls Buttress
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Drag Queen T 
End Run T 
Flee Flicker S 
Fleeting Glimpse S 
Hard Knocks T,TR 
Lefty 
Lisa Falls (the ice climb) 
Lisa Falls Left T,TR 
Lisa Falls Right T 
Neurotica T 
Rodan S,TR 
Safety Blitz T 
Sweep Left S,TR 
Sweet Spot T,TR 
Under the Skirt and Clip The Bush S 
Where's Winky? T 

Sweep Left 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Calderone, Preziosi
Page Views: 2,033
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Mar 22, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Rusty skating through the crux.

Description 

This is the bolted line just left of the waterfall. Usually dry by april. Because of the water running on this climb 5-6 months out of the year, it is deceptively smooth down low. Start on the rightward angling ramp, clip the bolt and figure out the tricky sequence. No, don't hold onto the bolt. Once you have gotten past the first bolt, continue up past the step on the face to the steep section. Take a breather. Sidestep onto the upper face, and now commence to "sweep left". The line on this climb does not clamber up the ramp, as this turns into 5.5, but stays on the face with the bolts between your hands and feet, as you "sweep left". This consists of thin smears on micro-flakes, and fingernails of steel. What makes this part of the climb fun, is that each year, after the freeze/thaw cycles, the flakes have all changed. I went up there this year (2004) and a micro-flake that I remember from last year, that was integral was gone now. The upper face has gotten harder, but the crux is still down low.


Protection 

2 bolts for the anchors, and 4 draws for the route.



Photos of Sweep Left Slideshow Add Photo
Leo working Sweep Left.
Leo working Sweep Left.
Comments on Sweep Left Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris P)earson
Jun 15, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is a good lead for beginners who are afraid to lead hard routs (like me) as the falls are generly more of a slide down the slick rock than an actual fall. This is a incredible route tha everyone should climb. If you top rope this route make sure you clip all the bolts above you to eliminate the swing.

By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Dec 24, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

What's fun about the crux is when you get fed up with falling on it, you can attempt to sprint up the slab and past it. However, this is futile as your legs spin out like a cartoon character as you slowly slip back down.

I found two ways to get past the crux. One involves quads of steel, and the other is more elegant with better technique :-)

By Tapas
Feb 1, 2012

one way...

By zoso
Jul 10, 2013

RoadTripRyan said, "All bolt hangers are now smashed, and the first bolt is less than waist high. The rock slide/floods last week completely changed/destroyed this route."

Meh, no loss.

By Gabriel Tallent
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 1, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

As of September 2013, it wasn't possible to clip the smashed hangers with quickdraws. However, it is just possible to thread slings through the hangers.

I am not a strong slab climber, but I think the route went at 5.10, not 5.8.

By Mountain Dreamer
Mar 17, 2014

Great video of the original route before the huge rockfall of 2013 buried the first 10 feet of the route. The first bolt will be repositioned higher in 2014.

By bsmoot
Mar 18, 2014

I've always thought that bolt was too close to a scenic waterfall. IMO it shouldn't be replaced ever.

By Tapas
Mar 18, 2014

Probably no need for a new bolt. It doesn't feel a bit runout to get up to the blunt arete from the "new" start. Someone did some chopping after the deluge last year and seems like part of the shared anchor was taken. The chopped bolts have been replaced, but the anchor will need to be fixed so the school kids and Splore groups can have a good time in the corner.

By Mark Alston
Jul 14, 2014

The bolts have all been replaced and the anchor is rebuilt. The old crux seems to be gone as it is quite easy up and over the steep part but the "sweep left" was beyond me. Seemingly little to no flakes or edges at all.