This is the bolted line just left of the waterfall. Usually dry by april. Because of the water running on this climb 5-6 months out of the year, it is deceptively smooth down low. Start on the rightward angling ramp, clip the bolt and figure out the tricky sequence. No, don't hold onto the bolt. Once you have gotten past the first bolt, continue up past the step on the face to the steep section. Take a breather. Sidestep onto the upper face, and now commence to "sweep left". The line on this climb does not clamber up the ramp, as this turns into 5.5, but stays on the face with the bolts between your hands and feet, as you "sweep left". This consists of thin smears on micro-flakes, and fingernails of steel. What makes this part of the climb fun, is that each year, after the freeze/thaw cycles, the flakes have all changed. I went up there this year (2004) and a micro-flake that I remember from last year, that was integral was gone now. The upper face has gotten harder, but the crux is still down low.
2 bolts for the anchors, and 4 draws for the route.
This is a good lead for beginners who are afraid to lead hard routs (like me) as the falls are generly more of a slide down the slick rock than an actual fall. This is a incredible route tha everyone should climb. If you top rope this route make sure you clip all the bolts above you to eliminate the swing.
By Mark P Thomas From: Oakland Dec 24, 2010 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b
What's fun about the crux is when you get fed up with falling on it, you can attempt to sprint up the slab and past it. However, this is futile as your legs spin out like a cartoon character as you slowly slip back down.
I found two ways to get past the crux. One involves quads of steel, and the other is more elegant with better technique :-)
Probably no need for a new bolt. It doesn't feel a bit runout to get up to the blunt arete from the "new" start. Someone did some chopping after the deluge last year and seems like part of the shared anchor was taken. The chopped bolts have been replaced, but the anchor will need to be fixed so the school kids and Splore groups can have a good time in the corner.
The bolts have all been replaced and the anchor is rebuilt. The old crux seems to be gone as it is quite easy up and over the steep part but the "sweep left" was beyond me. Seemingly little to no flakes or edges at all.