Swedish Girls 5.10d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Mark Sprague 5/01 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on May 31, 2007 |
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Jakob workin out the crux...
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Description A really fun route that is worth the hike out to the "far" reaches of Rumney. not your classic, Rumney climb. The crux is slopey and the feet are poor, but somehow it's so sweet.
Belay from the belay bolt at the left side of the ledge.
From the ledge, traverse left to a small corner and layback up carefully. Lots of opposition and body tension involved. After this mindbending section, you get a nice rest. Step right and climb up and left to the chains. The upper half is not as strenuous but not to be dismissed.
This route is a good warm up for the best 5.11d in the world (OK maybe not THE BEST, but it kicks ass), Stoned Temple Pilot, so you may as well hit that while you are there.
Location The far left route on the ledge on the left side of The Prudential. Traverse left from the belay bolt to start.
Protection 8 bolts to anchor.
Jakob on the big rounded flake at the start of the...
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this is where the hand holds seem to run out.... t...
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| Comments on Swedish Girls |
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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 11, 2009
rating: 5.10d
| There is an alternate start to this that I bolted that comes up the wall below to add some nice moderate climbing before you jump right into the cruxy start of the original way. This was the left most line on the lower wall ( glue-ins) but a lower bolted start to boar war may have been added since. The next 3 lines to the rt on this lower wall are ones that I wouldn't recommend: first, Measured Doses, a nondescript route with (to my mind)an oddly bolted finish. Second, a sharp, half cleaned, nasty, trad route that I did, with a bolted anchor (Ugly Crack), and finally a sharp sport route, Short and Sharp, that is right above a patch of rare plants that may not be visible part of the year, so please don't climb this or disturb the base area |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 16, 2010
| I climbed this route again today and cant see how it got down graded in the new guide book.... i would have accepted an up grade more easily, thought the original 5.10d was just right... |
By JohnnyG
Nov 14, 2011
| The lower start is really good. |
By S. Neoh
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.10d
| Deceptively tough albeit short crux. I think .10d is right especially when there was no chalk on any of the holds around the crux. |
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