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Routes in The Prudential
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Blue Sky and Rhino Horns S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bright Eyes S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cranky Pants S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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El Funko S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Finland S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Full Premium, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Half Premium, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hard Drive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Horned Behavior S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Machine Head S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Measured Doses S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Midget Tricks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mission Accomplished S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nice Land S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Practical Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Practice, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Prudential Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13 |
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Prudential Off-Width (LYLALTI start) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Short and sharp S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Soft Job S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Soft Machine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stoned Temple Pilot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Swedish Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tumbling Dice S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wiggler Wants It T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Mark Sprague 5/01 |
| Page Views: | 3,261 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on May 31, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
A really fun route that is worth the hike out to the "far" reaches of Rumney. not your classic, Rumney climb. The crux is slopey and the feet are poor, but somehow it's so sweet.
Belay from the belay bolt at the left side of the ledge. Alternatively you can do the new start from below and add a few bolts of more moderate climbing up to the ledge before jumping directly into the crux
From the ledge, traverse left to a small corner and layback up carefully. Lots of opposition and body tension involved. After this mindbending section, you get a nice rest. Step right and climb up and left to finish left of the chains. The upper half is not as strenuous but not to be dismissed.
This route is a good warm up for the best 5.11d in the world (OK maybe not THE BEST, but it kicks ass), Stoned Temple Pilot, so you may as well hit that while you are there.
Belay from the belay bolt at the left side of the ledge. Alternatively you can do the new start from below and add a few bolts of more moderate climbing up to the ledge before jumping directly into the crux
From the ledge, traverse left to a small corner and layback up carefully. Lots of opposition and body tension involved. After this mindbending section, you get a nice rest. Step right and climb up and left to finish left of the chains. The upper half is not as strenuous but not to be dismissed.
This route is a good warm up for the best 5.11d in the world (OK maybe not THE BEST, but it kicks ass), Stoned Temple Pilot, so you may as well hit that while you are there.
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