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 ADVANCED
Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs
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Ain't No Puppy T 
Big Dogs on the Prowl T,S 
Big Dogs Variation T,S 
Deodorant T,S 
Revocation T 
Skin Tollbooth, The 
Sweatin' to the Oldies T 
Turd Burglar 
Walking on Paper T 
White Shores T,S 

Sweatin' to the Oldies 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: P1&3 - ?, P2 - Landis, (P4 ) - ?
Page Views: 438
Submitted By: Umph! on Mar 14, 2007

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Description 

P1) Climb up thru the small A-shaped roof and go either, L) 9+ and a bit RO, or R) 9 awkward crack w/good jams (either way very short). Climb thru the center crack to the large ledge. Due to rope drag you may want to move the belay up to here. Climb up thru the bolts and the crux moves, 10a/b. It's a tad RO above the second bolt but the climbing is very easy - go straight above the second bolt for a good cam behind a "flake" or just RO up and right to the anchors left of the small tree.

P2) (PG13) Climb up the wide crack to the base of the large dihedral. Traverse right to the arete - the flake above will take a cam, but it is rather rotten granite and the traverse is short and easy (5.4). Drop in a cam and climb the crack up to the massive ledge with the boulders. Tricky gear at the end (and 5.8), or traverse right as the crack seams-out and take the short, wide crack to the ledge.
Take a nap on the ledge!

P3) Walk behind the boulders to the north end of the ledge (note the rap anchors on the boulder near the edge), and climb up the wide freaky-lookin' face crack (5.9+). . . You can also climb the OH dihedral to the right of the crack at about 5.9+ - a separate route and fun climbing.
Climb up to the ledge and the "memorial" and cave - note the rap station.

P4) Climb up the cool chimney (inside or out) out of the cave to top out (note the old bolt on the right at the top).

Rap the route; walk off around the south (watch for poison ivy); walk off around to the north - for the walk-offs you first have to walk up a bit.

Location 

Left of center while facing Sweat Loaf from the riverside pull-out. Note the large dihedral halfway up.
Cross the creek at the dirt parking area. Notice the large boulder with a cave and catch the trail to the right of it - follow the semi-worn trail and cairns to the base of the climb under the large pines.

Protection 

Cams up to 3" (may want extra yellow and green Alien and smallest); nuts, HBs, RPs.
Two added bolts for the unprotectable crux.
3 two-bolt rap stations (existing but in good shape).


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