Sweat 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Stuart Chamberlain, Richard Meining |
| Submitted By: | Steve Marr on Sep 20, 2006 |
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Orlando Teran in the thick of it
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Description Sweat is a short, but stellar, crack climb located where the blue climbers trail hits the wall. It is easy to spot as an arching crack that ends at a ledge with a small group of trees. The climb starts out as a fist crack (#3 Camalot), narrows to hands (the best part of the route), and then ends as a finger crack below the anchors. Just below the anchors are two cracks that you can use to get around a large hanging flake. You can either use the anchors at the ledge (bolts with chain links), or continue to a second set (rap anchors) located up and slight right from the ledge. To descend, rap with a single rope back to the base. Easily one of the best 5.7s in the park.
Protection Light trad rack with cams to a #3 Camalot. Choice of two 2-bolt anchors at the top.
BETA PHOTO: Another view of Sweat in the late afternoon.
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Sweat
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Rod TR'ing Sweat.
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By ben bryan
Dec 17, 2006
| Awesome early trad lead. Pro is easy, and route fun. Buzzards roost in the area... |
By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 29, 2007
| Not to be confused with the "Buzzards roost" area...
but yeah, there's a lot of poop |
By Sean Wolf
From: Denver, CO
Jun 11, 2009
| that is a sick lookin crack |
By Jennifer Barton
From: Champaign, IL
Dec 23, 2010
rating: 5.7
| If you don't have "man hands" to make it a fist crack, the first 10 feet is a more interesting offwidth. A #4 Camalot can provide some comfort in the first 5-10 feet of the crack. This was my favorite route of the trip. |
By Jeremy Bauman
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 28, 2011
rating: 5.6
| First trad lead many years ago. I remember being so scared that I placed a piece every 2ft or so. I did it last year and placed maybe 4-5 pieces. |
By Doug Meneke
May 10, 2013
| The first 10-20 feet is offwidth. However, you can layback and "sit" on the rock. You can also reach in DEEP, and there is a bottom to the crack that has a lip. A good, fun solo, too.
This is also the area for easy access to the ledge up top to setup/rap-down French Route/Fly on a Windshield, Stranger than Friction, Texas Radio, and other backside classics. |
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