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Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs

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Ain't No Puppy 
Big Dogs on the Prowl 
Big Dogs Variation 
Deodorant 
Revocation 
Skin Tollbooth, The 
Sweatin' to the Oldies 
Turd Burglar 
Walking on Paper 
White Shores 

Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 19, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: 06-25-2002
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Description 

While one of the many crags in the SSV Canyon that has seen only a fraction of its potential lines developed, the Sweat Loaf does hold a host of truly classic trad crack systems. The main sector of the Sweat Loaf dome faces roughly West by North/West but seems to get good sun for much of the day. In the years prior to Bernard Gilett showing up, the Sweat Loaf was home to several multi-pitch routes from 5.9 to 5.11. Linking up the faces between the corners and cracks with a few judicious bolts has opened up some new, difficult lines. Presently there are about a dozen lines on the Sweat Loaf, all two or three pitches in length, however, a number of rap stations have been established at 80 and 100 ft marks, so it is possible to grab a pitch without necessarily topping out. Very little published material exists for the Sweat Loaf. Tom Brown put out a mini-guide (R&I, number 79) but this is quite dated. Bernard has an up-dated map but this will probably not become available until he publishes a complete guide (!). For the present then, numbering here will follow left to right starting in the gully on the East side. The Sweat Loaf virtually looms over the road but the excellent granite, good position, and bomber gear placements make a trip to the Sweat Loaf well worth the day's effort.


Getting There 

Drive 4.9 miles up the canyon to a pull out on the left. Most of the time you can wade the creek without much difficulty. Once on the other side just head for the big dome.


11 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',4],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs:
White Shores   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Deodorant   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Browse More Classics in Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs

Featured Route For Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs
The route....

Big Dogs Variation 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b  CO : Lyons : ... : Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs
This one pitch variation to "Big Dogs on the Prowl (5.12a)" climbs the enjoyable thin corner above the bolted 5.12a start. Four bolts protect this 5.10 section, which is accessed on the right by a low fifth class ledge system. This corner could be lead on gear with small cams to a #0.5 Camalot, although some of the placements might be tricky/pumpy on lead.Rap from a 2 bolt anchor with chains.......[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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By Joe Huggins
From: 666 Rue le Jour-Edge City
Oct 4, 2002

The guys I climb with in the Vrain call this rock Big Dogs. Go up the right flank and check out the lines up there. The shallow dihedral with bolts is Big Dogs, named for Andy's dog Coon. 10c/d? The second pitch uses bolts and gear after the difficulty relents, 12a? Off to the right is the diagonal crack Rats Roof (I think that's the name) and the bolted variation that breaks out left 11b. Good stuff. Go in the fall, the poison ivy sucks.