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While one of the many crags in the SSV Canyon that has seen only a fraction of its potential lines developed, the Sweat Loaf does hold a host of truly classic trad crack systems. The main sector of the Sweat Loaf dome faces roughly West by North/West but seems to get good sun for much of the day. In the years prior to Bernard Gilett showing up, the Sweat Loaf was home to several multi-pitch routes from 5.9 to 5.11. Linking up the faces between the corners and cracks with a few judicious bolts has opened up some new, difficult lines. Presently there are about a dozen lines on the Sweat Loaf, all two or three pitches in length, however, a number of rap stations have been established at 80 and 100 ft marks, so it is possible to grab a pitch without necessarily topping out. Very little published material exists for the Sweat Loaf. Tom Brown put out a mini-guide (R&I, number 79) but this is quite dated. Bernard has an up-dated map but this will probably not become available until he publishes a complete guide (!). For the present then, numbering here will follow left to right starting in the gully on the East side. The Sweat Loaf virtually looms over the road but the excellent granite, good position, and bomber gear placements make a trip to the Sweat Loaf well worth the day's effort.
Drive 4.9 miles up the canyon to a pull out on the left. Most of the time you can wade the creek without much difficulty. Once on the other side just head for the big dome.
11 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs:
- V-easy 3 Boulder
Turd Burglar V6 7a Boulder, 10'
The Skin Tollbooth V8+ 7b+ Boulder, 10'
Revocation 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Walking on Paper 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
White Shores 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Sweatin' to the Oldies 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13 Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Deodorant 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Big Dogs Variation 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Big Dogs on the Prowl 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Featured Route For Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs
Big Dogs Variation 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b CO : Lyons : ... : Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs
This one pitch variation to "Big Dogs on the Prowl (5.12a)" climbs the enjoyable thin corner above the bolted 5.12a start. Four bolts protect this 5.10 section, which is accessed on the right by a low fifth class ledge system. This corner could be lead on gear with small cams to a #0.5 Camalot, although some of the placements might be tricky/pumpy on lead.Rap from a 2 bolt anchor with chains.......[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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