BETA PHOTO: 06-25-2002
While one of the many crags in the SSV Canyon that has seen only a fraction of its potential lines developed, the Sweat Loaf does hold a host of truly classic trad crack systems. The main sector of the Sweat Loaf dome faces roughly West by North/West but seems to get good sun for much of the day. In the years prior to Bernard Gilett showing up, the Sweat Loaf was home to several multi-pitch routes from 5.9 to 5.11. Linking up the faces between the corners and cracks with a few judicious bolts has opened up some new, difficult lines. Presently there are about a dozen lines on the Sweat Loaf, all two or three pitches in length, however, a number of rap stations have been established at 80 and 100 ft marks, so it is possible to grab a pitch without necessarily topping out. Very little published material exists for the Sweat Loaf. Tom Brown put out a mini-guide (R&I, number 79) but this is quite dated. Bernard has an up-dated map but this will probably not become available until he publishes a complete guide (!). For the present then, numbering here will follow left to right starting in the gully on the East side. The Sweat Loaf virtually looms over the road but the excellent granite, good position, and bomber gear placements make a trip to the Sweat Loaf well worth the day's effort.
Drive 4.9 miles up the canyon to a pull out on the left. Most of the time you can wade the creek without much difficulty. Once on the other side just head for the big dome.
Weather station 8.9 miles from here
13 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs:
Revocation 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
White Shores 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Deodorant 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Featured Route For Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs
Deodorant 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b CO
: ... : Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs
Deodorant is a bolted variation to the first pitch of "Independent Worm Saloon". Follow a broken crack system to the left of Big Dogs, until a horizontal crack. Traverse to the left and enjoy some well protected thin face climbing. These height dependent moves lead to a short, finger crack (#0.5 Camalot) and another lone bolt. Finish in the hand crack to the left (#1 Camalot), which leads to a 2 bolt anchor. You can't lower with a 60m rope, but a 95ft rap will deposit you on the...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Joe Huggins
From: Grand Junction
Oct 4, 2002
The guys I climb with in the Vrain call this rock Big Dogs. Go up the right flank and check out the lines up there. The shallow dihedral with bolts is Big Dogs, named for Andy's dog Coon. 10c/d? The second pitch uses bolts and gear after the difficulty relents, 12a? Off to the right is the diagonal crack Rats Roof (I think that's the name) and the bolted variation that breaks out left 11b. Good stuff. Go in the fall, the poison ivy sucks.