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Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
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Ain't No Puppy T 
Big Dogs on the Prowl T,S 
Big Dogs Variation T,S 
Deodorant T,S 
Gravity's Rainbow T 
Independent Worm Saloon T 
Rat Crack Direct T 
Revocation T 
Skin Tollbooth, The 
Sweatin' to the Oldies T 
Turd Burglar 
Walking on Paper T 
White Shores T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 19, 2002
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Description 

While one of the many crags in the SSV Canyon that has seen only a fraction of its potential lines developed, the Sweat Loaf does hold a host of truly classic trad crack systems. The main sector of the Sweat Loaf dome faces roughly West by North/West but seems to get good sun for much of the day. In the years prior to Bernard Gilett showing up, the Sweat Loaf was home to several multi-pitch routes from 5.9 to 5.11. Linking up the faces between the corners and cracks with a few judicious bolts has opened up some new, difficult lines. Presently there are about a dozen lines on the Sweat Loaf, all two or three pitches in length, however, a number of rap stations have been established at 80 and 100 ft marks, so it is possible to grab a pitch without necessarily topping out. Very little published material exists for the Sweat Loaf. Tom Brown put out a mini-guide (R&I, number 79) but this is quite dated. Bernard has an up-dated map but this will probably not become available until he publishes a complete guide (!). For the present then, numbering here will follow left to right starting in the gully on the East side. The Sweat Loaf virtually looms over the road but the excellent granite, good position, and bomber gear placements make a trip to the Sweat Loaf well worth the day's effort.

Getting There 

Drive 4.9 miles up the canyon to a pull out on the left. Most of the time you can wade the creek without much difficulty. Once on the other side just head for the big dome.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.9 miles from here

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',5],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs:
Revocation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
White Shores   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Deodorant   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Big Dogs Variation   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Big Dogs on the Prowl   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 250'   
Browse More Classics in Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs

Featured Route For Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs
Lew, making it look easy.

Revocation 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CO : Lyons : ... : Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs
A route that has some great climbing but is too broken up to be a great line overall. Still, it is worth doing. Find the upper half of the climb as decribed in the "location" text. The anchors are at the ledge above the arate and handcrack, to trace the line downward, look to the pointed flake below the roof, following a horizontal down and left to a right leaning dihedral and to the base of the corner, on a large ledge that is accessed via a 30-foot traverse from the ground/trail.From the trai...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Shadrock
From: Athens, GA
1 day ago
CONDITION REPORT 
Joe's comment is no joke. If you go in the summer, wear pants: the poison ivy is massive and unrelenting. With careful bushwhacking you can avoid the worst of it but you're bound to come away with a souvenir of your day at the crag.
By Joe Huggins
From: Grand Junction
Oct 4, 2002
The guys I climb with in the Vrain call this rock Big Dogs. Go up the right flank and check out the lines up there. The shallow dihedral with bolts is Big Dogs, named for Andy's dog Coon. 10c/d? The second pitch uses bolts and gear after the difficulty relents, 12a? Off to the right is the diagonal crack Rats Roof (I think that's the name) and the bolted variation that breaks out left 11b. Good stuff. Go in the fall, the poison ivy sucks.
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