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Routes in Cactus Rose Cliff
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[Redacted] S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Aliens Ate My Penis S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Alligator Ed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Arizona Rising S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bachar Up Against The Wall And Kauk Him S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bald Headed Neocons S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Barbecueing Traditions S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cactus Rose S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Calm Before the Storm S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Child's Play S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cowboy's Delight S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crack to Black S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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E=mc^2 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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End Of The Line S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Feathers Ledge S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Handsome Alien S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Hell Raiser S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hell Razors S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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How Ed Lost His Mind S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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In Too Deep S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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John Wayne Never Wore Boxer Shorts S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Little Boys With Power Toys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Luck of the Draw S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Maiden's Milk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mark Finds Bob Bolting S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Munchkins on Parade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Needle Lies, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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No Techno S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Old School Skills S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Omen, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Paper Bondage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pigs in Bondage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Raising Arizona S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rolling Thunder S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shelf Rose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sin Wagon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Squeezebox S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stairway to Seven S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sticks and Stone May Break My Bones... T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sweat Hog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Take The Skinheads Bowling S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Tornado of Souls S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Unknown S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Vapor Trails S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Welcome To The Machine S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Where the River Flows S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Whisper of Immortality S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown (probably Bob D or one of the Marks) |
| Page Views: | 701 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Aug 4, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
To find this route, hike up to the cactus rose cliff on the south side of the bank. This route is the third line from the left end of the wall proper. It has almost no chalk on it, and two fairly spaced bolts that lead into the void.
The start is typical Shelf Road, couple thin moves to good holds. Ease your way up to the first bolt which protects the next couple of fun moves, including a nice technical section to get to the next bolt. This second bolt protects some more fun moves that head straight up to a horizontal crack. You can probably traverse left to anchors at the top of 'mark finds bob bolting'. I opted to top out and placed a #3 Camalot in vertical crack at the top. This crack would accept anything from large hexes to #3 to #5 Camalots. I then walked south to a good sized tree 20 feet away to anchor from.
For me, it seemed like 3 minor cruxes - the very start, just after 1st bolt, and just after second bolt. The route was substantially easier than the other 10s on the south side of The Bank (The Omen, John Wayne, Paper Bondage, etc). Looks runout, but the harder climbing is well protected.
The start is typical Shelf Road, couple thin moves to good holds. Ease your way up to the first bolt which protects the next couple of fun moves, including a nice technical section to get to the next bolt. This second bolt protects some more fun moves that head straight up to a horizontal crack. You can probably traverse left to anchors at the top of 'mark finds bob bolting'. I opted to top out and placed a #3 Camalot in vertical crack at the top. This crack would accept anything from large hexes to #3 to #5 Camalots. I then walked south to a good sized tree 20 feet away to anchor from.
For me, it seemed like 3 minor cruxes - the very start, just after 1st bolt, and just after second bolt. The route was substantially easier than the other 10s on the south side of The Bank (The Omen, John Wayne, Paper Bondage, etc). Looks runout, but the harder climbing is well protected.
Protection
2 bolts, no anchors. You can traverse left to anchors on 'Mark finds Bob bolting', or top out. You can also supplement bolts with a couple stoppers, large tricams, and large cams/hexes for the top out crack.
Per Evan C: there is an independent two bolt anchor in place on this climb.
Per Evan C: there is an independent two bolt anchor in place on this climb.
Photos
2 Comments