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Cactus Rose Cliff
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Sweat Hog S 
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Sweat Hog 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: unknown (probably Bob D or one of the Marks)
Page Views: 107
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 5, 2003

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BETA PHOTO

Description 

To find this route, hike up to the cactus rose cliff on the south side of the bank. This route is the third line from the left end of the wall proper. It has almost no chalk on it, and two fairly spaced bolts that lead into the void.

The start is typical Shelf Road, couple thin moves to good holds. Ease your way up to the first bolt which protects the next couple of fun moves, including a nice technical section to get to the next bolt. This second bolt protects some more fun moves that head straight up to a horizontal crack. You can probably traverse left to anchors at the top of 'mark finds bob bolting'. I opted to top out and placed a #3 Camalot in vertical crack at the top. This crack would accept anything from large hexes to #3 to #5 Camalots. I then walked south to a good sized tree 20 feet away to anchor from.

For me, it seemed like 3 minor cruxes - the very start, just after 1st bolt, and just after second bolt. The route was substantially easier than the other 10s on the south side of The Bank (The Omen, John Wayne, Paper Bondage, etc). Looks runout, but the harder climbing is well protected.


Protection 

2 bolts, no anchors. can traverse left to anchors on 'mark finds bob bolting', or top out. can also supplement bolts with a couple stoppers, large tricams, and large cams/hexes for top out crack.



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