Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Roof Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
American Dream S 
Balrog S 
Catch 22 S 
Critical Mass S 
Delirious S 
Epiphany S 
False Alarm S 
Gollum S 
Hanging by a Thread S 
Leviathan S 
Nostalgia S 
Salutations S 
Swan Song S 
Swank Nostalgia S 
Trepanation S 
Triple Trouble S 
Ultimate, The S 
Vendetta S 

Swank Nostalgia 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 155'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2005
Page Views: 1,122
Submitted By: veritus on Nov 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a great extension to Nostalgia (5.11c) and it's a rope stretcher. The crux comes at about bolt 16 or 17 with pretty small crimps that lead up to a juggy finish - just look for all of the glued feet and crimps.

Since this route is over 100' long it's common to L-P-L to get down - lower down to the midpoint anchors, pull your rope, and then lower again/rap to the ground (works with a 60m rope).

Location 

The extension to Nostalgia.

Protection 

21 bolts, chains


Comments on Swank Nostalgia Add Comment
Show which comments
By wizard
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Mar 11, 2015

CONDITION REPORT 
Swank Nostalgia and the upper sections of Quarryman and Burning Desire past the first anchors are currently closed due to hawks nesting next to the routes. Climbers are advised to avoid these routes until the young hawks have fledged (left the nest), probably around mid-June. Use caution on Nostalgia, The Ultimate, Hanging by a Thread, and the lower sections of Quarryman and Burning Desire, and please be sensitive to any disturbances to the nest.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
May 8, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Really fun movments. Extension can be broken down into sections which makes this a soft 12a. A no hands rest awaits after the anchor to nostalgia and a few more spots above. I've alway wanted to do this climb and finally did it yesterday with strong wind gust. A highly recommended route for 12a.
By Kazu Watanabe
From: Irvine, CA
Feb 10, 2014

A very good route. I thought there is a distinctive crux in the extension. Can be TRed with an 80-m rope with some stretch.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!