Swallow Tail  5.9

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 140 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Jerry Klatt, 2011 Submitted By:  aaron hope on Feb 5, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Climbers launching from the top of the 5.3 first p...

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Description 

This is located just to the right of Lurch.

The first pitch is easy, 30 foot 5.4 scramble to a large ledge. There are two bomber black bolts with black chains that mark the beginning of the second pitch (you can see them from the ground).

The second pitch climbs fun knobby terrain terrain, mostly 5.7-5.8 with a distinct 5.9 crux. It starts off following a very small seam with knobs up and to the right. Follow the bolts to another set of anchors with chains (or continue to the top via easy 5.6 climbing protected by one more bolt). From anchor to anchor it's just at 100 feet.

Mostly protected by bolts, supplemented by the occasional gear placement. All in all, a well protected route. The initial 5.6 seam can be very well protected with a mirco cam 00 Purple C3. Above that there are placements for gear from 0.4 Grey Camalot to a #1 Red Camalot.

Note: you can easily reach the chains at the beginning of the second pitch by rapping from the top of Morticia with a 60 meter rope. Makes for a great double route combo.