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Routes in East Face
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Beast of Burden S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bird Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Blue Velvet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Captain Fingers T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Crushed Velvet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dominion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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East Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Eastern Bloc S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Falcon, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Fang-Left Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Farley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fracture, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gallows Pole (direct) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Grand Illusion T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Harding's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Lady Luck T R |
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Lurch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Mini Illusion, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Monkey Flower T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Morticia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Opus 7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Over the Edge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Pinch a Loaf S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Scheister T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Summit Bolt Ladder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Stone direct aka Paul Bunion T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Swallows Tale T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Talking Heads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Tapestry T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Taurus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Telesis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Wanker, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Aidan Maguire and Jerry Klatt, 2011 |
| Page Views: | 4,111 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Hope on Feb 5, 2012 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This is located just to the right of Lurch.
The first pitch is easy, 30 foot 5.4 scramble to a large ledge. There are two bomber black bolts with black chains that mark the beginning of the second pitch (you can see them from the ground).
The second pitch climbs fun knobby terrain terrain, mostly 5.7-5.8 with a distinct 5.9 crux. It starts off following a very small seam with knobs up and to the right. Follow the bolts to another set of anchors with chains (or continue to the top via easy 5.6 climbing protected by one more bolt). From anchor to anchor it's just at 100 feet.
Mostly protected by bolts, supplemented by the occasional gear placement. All in all, a well protected route. The initial 5.6 seam can be protected with a mirco cam 00 Purple C3. Above that there are placements for gear from 0.4 Grey Camalot to a #1 Red Camalot.
Note: you can easily reach the chains at the beginning of the second pitch by rapping from the top of Morticia with a 60 meter rope. Makes for a great double route combo.
The first pitch is easy, 30 foot 5.4 scramble to a large ledge. There are two bomber black bolts with black chains that mark the beginning of the second pitch (you can see them from the ground).
The second pitch climbs fun knobby terrain terrain, mostly 5.7-5.8 with a distinct 5.9 crux. It starts off following a very small seam with knobs up and to the right. Follow the bolts to another set of anchors with chains (or continue to the top via easy 5.6 climbing protected by one more bolt). From anchor to anchor it's just at 100 feet.
Mostly protected by bolts, supplemented by the occasional gear placement. All in all, a well protected route. The initial 5.6 seam can be protected with a mirco cam 00 Purple C3. Above that there are placements for gear from 0.4 Grey Camalot to a #1 Red Camalot.
Note: you can easily reach the chains at the beginning of the second pitch by rapping from the top of Morticia with a 60 meter rope. Makes for a great double route combo.
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