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Swainson 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  TR, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 289
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Apr 24, 2006

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Description 

This short top-rope is a good quick climb to finish off your afternoon at Cueva. The anchors are easily accessible and it has a great view over the Rio Grande Valley. That said, it's not a spectacular climb. At first glance, one notices many signs that holds have broken off. In actuality, the holds are all solid and I don't think more rock will be torn off unless you start to meander from the route.

The climb takes a vertical line up a short face, utilizing a few hidden,deep, and narrow pockets.

Location 

Find this climb on the north side of the western-most spit of rock at Cueva. The climb isn't obvious from the ground; there are two climbable crack systems on this wall, and Swainson is to the west of both of these. The best way to find the climb is to scramble up to the anchors. Reaching the anchor requires easy 5th class scrambling along the easy western-most slabs.

Protection 

The top-rope anchor for this route consists of two 3/8" bolts. They are set back 10 feet from the sloping lip so bring some webbing to extend the anchor.


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By Aaron Hobson
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jan 3, 2009

Almost three years after I first climbed this route, I was back there today with the OMTRS. A couple people jumped on our top-rope and the consensus was that the crux is the lower section. There are some balancy moves on top of the first bulge/hold which spit most people off. Also of note was that we were able to back-up the bolts using pink and brown tricams about 20 ft further back from the bolts.
By Aaron Hobson
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Feb 26, 2009

Both of the 1/4" bolts were replaced last weekend.