Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Phallus
Select Route:
Phallus, The 
SW Face 

SW Face 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a C3 R

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 100', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a C3 [details]
FA: Peter Geyser
Season: desert season (year round)
Page Views: 558
Submitted By: Matt Pickren on Jan 22, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the same route that Todd Gordon has posted. The only difference is that it can now, and maybe has already?, go clean. I only thought it important to post a new route because it felt slightly more serious than C2, which some may mistakingly assume after reading A2, that was the old rating prior to D.P. (the nailing ban).

The R sections felt like the first 30 feet when nothing inspired all that much confidence. As well as after free climbing right after two bolts. The fall looked relatively clean onto 2 okay looking bolts, I just wasn't feeling like testing that theory.

Overall, thin and challenging on soft, dirty rock.


Location 

Look for obvious dong. Climb thin "crack" on south west-corner.


Protection 

Lots of small gear. Brass and aluminum offsets, tri-cams and small (black thru red x3) aliens. Anchor on top is surprisingly good. With fresh red cordelette equalized as off 1-18-09.



Comments on SW Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Geoff Unger
From: Moab, UT
Dec 11, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a C3 R

Just did this thing today. I had always admired it from the road and never went over to climb it. Before reading Matt's post(and not knowing that it had seen a clean ascent before), I rated it exactly the same way. 5.9 C3 R. You definitely do not want to blow it early on and there is some sporty free climbing at the traverse. I ended up free climbing the whole section after the bolts to below the cap rock and it got my attention. Our idea was to do a day of 'easy' free climbing towers in the park, but it didn't turn out that way. Aiders would have made a big difference.

By jakobi
From: moab, utah
Dec 15, 2010

Just to clear things up this route is on the south face of the tower.