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This is the same route that Todd Gordon has posted. The only difference is that it can now, and maybe has already?, go clean. I only thought it important to post a new route because it felt slightly more serious than C2, which some may mistakingly assume after reading A2, that was the old rating prior to D.P. (the nailing ban).
The R sections felt like the first 30 feet when nothing inspired all that much confidence. As well as after free climbing right after two bolts. The fall looked relatively clean onto 2 okay looking bolts, I just wasn't feeling like testing that theory.
Overall, thin and challenging on soft, dirty rock.
Look for obvious dong. Climb thin "crack" on south west-corner.
Lots of small gear. Brass and aluminum offsets, tri-cams and small (black thru red x3) aliens. Anchor on top is surprisingly good. With fresh red cordelette equalized as off 1-18-09.
|By Geoff Unger|
From: Moab, UT
Dec 11, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R
Just did this thing today. I had always admired it from the road and never went over to climb it. Before reading Matt's post(and not knowing that it had seen a clean ascent before), I rated it exactly the same way. 5.9 C3 R. You definitely do not want to blow it early on and there is some sporty free climbing at the traverse. I ended up free climbing the whole section after the bolts to below the cap rock and it got my attention. Our idea was to do a day of 'easy' free climbing towers in the park, but it didn't turn out that way. Aiders would have made a big difference.
From: moab, utah
Dec 15, 2010
Just to clear things up this route is on the south face of the tower.