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The Phallus
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Phallus, The T 
SW Face T 

SW Face 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C3 R

Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 100', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C3 [details]
FA: Peter Geyser
Season: desert season (year round)
Page Views: 750
Submitted By: Matt Pickren on Jan 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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As high as we got on The Phallus.

Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park MORE INFO >>>


This is the same route that Todd Gordon has posted. The only difference is that it can now, and maybe has already?, go clean. I only thought it important to post a new route because it felt slightly more serious than C2, which some may mistakingly assume after reading A2, that was the old rating prior to D.P. (the nailing ban).

The R sections felt like the first 30 feet when nothing inspired all that much confidence. As well as after free climbing right after two bolts. The fall looked relatively clean onto 2 okay looking bolts, I just wasn't feeling like testing that theory.

Overall, thin and challenging on soft, dirty rock.


Look for obvious dong. Climb thin "crack" on south west-corner.


Lots of small gear. Brass and aluminum offsets, tri-cams and small (black thru red x3) aliens. Anchor on top is surprisingly good. With fresh red cordelette equalized as off 1-18-09.

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By Geoff Unger
From: Moab, UT
Dec 11, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3 R

Just did this thing today. I had always admired it from the road and never went over to climb it. Before reading Matt's post(and not knowing that it had seen a clean ascent before), I rated it exactly the same way. 5.9 C3 R. You definitely do not want to blow it early on and there is some sporty free climbing at the traverse. I ended up free climbing the whole section after the bolts to below the cap rock and it got my attention. Our idea was to do a day of 'easy' free climbing towers in the park, but it didn't turn out that way. Aiders would have made a big difference.
By jakobi
From: moab, utah
Dec 15, 2010

Just to clear things up this route is on the south face of the tower.
By Matt Glue
From: Boulder, CO
May 8, 2014

Tried this on 4/8. I had led a few pitches of C2 and under, and figured I'd try a C3. Wow! Big mistake. 2 hours of utter terror to go the 30 feet above the free climbing. I bailed at the bolts; my mind was totally fried. Did Zenyatta Endtrada the next day with no problem. Big difference between C2+ and C3. Maybe someday...
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