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Svolvaergeita

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Forsida T 

Svolvaergeita 


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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: TM Miller on Aug 7, 2010
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The beautiful spire of Svolvaergeita from the appr...

Description 

This is probably the most famous rock feature in Lofoten. Most climbers will be far more impressed by the sweeping granite wall of Presten, but Svolvaergeita gets more attention.

Svolvaergeita ("The Svolvaer Goat") is a clean granite spire topped by two blocks, or horns, rising straight above the town of Svolvaer. The tradition is to jump from the higher spire to the lower one. The lower summit block is weathering away, and in the winter of 2006/7 a chunk of the inner edge fell off. The guidebook states that the jump is "no longer recommended", but people still do it. Have at it, if that's your thing. The graveyard below adds encouragement. The views from up on the spire are spectacular.


Getting There 

From Henningsvaer, drive to Svolvaer. When arriving to town, you will go through a tunnel - go left at the roundabout after the tunnel. Turn left into Nyveien (sign for Melkerdalen/Nybyen. Follow the road around to the right, then right again, then make a left on the road at the graveyard, then turn left again and drive downhill. Park in front of the school. The trail leaves from here and is marked "Sti/Track".

Head up the trail - shortly after starting the hike you will come to a chain leading up a slab. Go up this, and continue following the blazes up the steep trail to the shoulder above, then cut right over towards Svolvaergeita.


1 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Svolvaergeita:
Forsida   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 450'   
Browse More Classics in Svolvaergeita

Featured Route For Svolvaergeita
Approaching the summit block, following the last pitch of Forsida.

Forsida 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Europe : Norway : ... : Svolvaergeita
P1: (5.7, 30m) Start up the well traveled face/crack to the left of the small tree at the base. Climb up and slightly left, eventually coming to steep hand crack through a bulge. Climb up this (or bypass it to the right) and gain a ramp which leads up and left. With good runnering, it is best to continue on and link this pitch with P2 - its an easy and logical link. If you are already battling rope drag, belay here.P2: (5.7, 20m) Continue up the ramp, climbing around a large boulder at its...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Svolvaergeita Slideshow Add Photo
View from the top of the Svolvaergeita (The Goat)
View from the top of the Svolvaergeita (The Goat)
Making "The Goat" leap!
Making "The Goat" leap!
Svolvaergeita from the town of Svolvaer.  The twins summit blocks, or "horns", are visible in this photo.
BETA PHOTO: Svolvaergeita from the town of Svolvaer. The twin...
Closer view
Closer view
"The Goat" in the distance
"The Goat" in the distance
The view from the backside
The view from the backside
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