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Svengali 
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Svengali 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Sven Krebs?
Season: All year if sunny
Page Views: 503
Submitted By: Bryan Gilmore on Jun 27, 2010
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Tom E. on Svengali.

Description 

This is a great route, heavy on the stems! Stem up the obvious corner straight up to the imposing roof. Clip an intermediate anchor and clip 5 or 6 more bolts through the jungle gym roof to the upper anchor. Don't try and lower with a 60m rope, use the midpoint anchor or a 70m.


Location 

It is just past (100m) the mine shafts with the wood mining relics. Look for the big roof at the top of a nice corner.


Protection 

Two (2) handfuls of draws.

Per Highlander: 16 quickdraws plus something for the anchors.



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By Highlander
From: Ouray, CO
Oct 21, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

16 bolts, plus anchors. 1st bolt inside the slot is loose and needs to be tighten or replaced.