For the moment, access to this area by climbers should be from a temporary trailhead/parking area that is located near the old Morrell's Wall Parking Lot area. From there, the new Tom's Thumb Trail leads up toward Morrells Wall, Gardeners Wall and on to Tom's Thumb. Please look for, and use designated climber access trails.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Sven Slab, so named because a Sven saw was used to cut the original trail up to the wall, is probably the most popular granite climbing location near Phoenix after Pinnacle Peak. This is the place to hone those sturdy foot muscles on thin granite crystal and edge climbing. The main wall is home to several nice moderate outings, while the outrigger crag down to the right features some additional harder lines.
Drive south from the intersection of 128th street and Dynamite Road/Rio Verde Drive until you get to a "T", make a left and drive east (high clearance required!!!) until you reach the parking area below Sven Slab. It is possible to drive to the upper area and park there if you want to put your vehicle through it's paces and skip the two minutes it takes to walk up the hill.
Note : Getting There - "It is possible to drive to the upper area and park there if you want to put your vehicle through its paces and skip the two minutes it takes to walk up the hill." It is no longer possible or appropriate to do the prior, as you will find fencing!
At this time you must park just off the main access road in what are a couple places to park a few vehicles! If you have higher clearance drive further east to the end to conserve low clearance access for others. This area official resides within the boundaries of the McDowell Sonoran Preserve and should be treated as such!
Just a heads up, made an attempt to climb One for the Road yesterday but got chased off by bees that look like they have a hive at the top of the first pitch. My partner and I moved over to the main bolted area, but were still getting harassed by bees.