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Sven Slab

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Always & Forever T 
Black Death T 
Cakewalk S,TR 
Changes in Attitude T,S 
Changes in Lattitude T 
Changes in Longitude T 
Chute, The T,S 
Crawl of the Wild, The T 
Dark Passage T 
Direct Hop S 
Ego Trip S,TR 
Hippity Hop S 
I Sinkso T 
Mouse Tracks T 
Nit Nat  T,S,TR 
One for the Road T 
Over the Hill T 
Peaches and Cream T 
Quaker Oats S 
Top Line T 
Unknown T,S 
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Sven Slab  

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Elevation: 2,000'
Page Views: 19,839
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Orphaned on Feb 3, 2006
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Sven Slab, so named because a Sven saw was used to cut the original trail up to the wall, is probably the most popular granite climbing location near Phoenix after Pinnacle Peak. This is the place to hone those sturdy foot muscles on thin granite crystal and edge climbing. The main wall is home to several nice moderate outings, while the outrigger crag down to the right features some additional harder lines.

Getting There 

Drive south from the intersection of 128th street and Dynamite Road/Rio Verde Drive until you get to a "T", make a left and drive east (high clearance required!!!) until you reach the parking area below Sven Slab. It is possible to drive to the upper area and park there if you want to put your vehicle through it's paces and skip the two minutes it takes to walk up the hill.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.9 miles from here

21 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sven Slab:
The Crawl of the Wild   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Quaker Oats   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Changes in Longitude   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
One for the Road   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Mouse Tracks   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Ego Trip   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Sport, TR, 90'   
Cakewalk   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 90'   
I Sinkso   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Black Death   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 70'   
Nit Nat    5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   
Unknown   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Dark Passage   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
Browse More Classics in Sven Slab

Featured Route For Sven Slab
Rest before the crux sequence begins

Always & Forever 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Sven Slab
Always & Forever, encapsulates this granite flake spire's ominous feeling. The opening moves off the deck are powerful, delicate, and slightly mysterious in nature. The starting moves include crimps and sidepulls, then you will encounter the crux proper. High steps, core tension, and finger stack crimps are the name of the game. Finally the route connects back into easier slab climbing, run-out, on Hippity Hop....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of Sven Slab Slideshow Add Photo
Jeff on one of the right-most Sven Slab friction r...
Jeff on one of the right-most Sven Slab friction r...
Ski runs up the hawk boulder at sven slabs
Ski runs up the hawk boulder at sven slabs
Sven Slab
Furthest Left (East) portion of the Sven Slab. It ...
BETA PHOTO: Furthest Left (East) portion of the Sven Slab. It ...

Comments on Sven Slab Add Comment
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From: Scottsdale
May 2, 2008
Note : Getting There - "It is possible to drive to the upper area and park there if you want to put your vehicle through its paces and skip the two minutes it takes to walk up the hill." It is no longer possible or appropriate to do the prior, as you will find fencing!

At this time you must park just off the main access road in what are a couple places to park a few vehicles! If you have higher clearance drive further east to the end to conserve low clearance access for others. This area official resides within the boundaries of the McDowell Sonoran Preserve and should be treated as such!
By Benjamin Smith
May 11, 2008
Just a heads up, made an attempt to climb One for the Road yesterday but got chased off by bees that look like they have a hive at the top of the first pitch. My partner and I moved over to the main bolted area, but were still getting harassed by bees.
From: Scottsdale
Dec 12, 2008
Still, to this day there are bees, likely Africanized, as they are persistent in there harassment / attacks, still atop and around the Svenís Slab formation.
By noburu
From: Flagstaff
Nov 8, 2009
Very few bees (like 2 or 3) but no nest today at One for the Road area (11/09)
By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
May 24, 2010
For you adventurous that love to explore - There is a tunnel to the right of Black Death that you may go up into ... tight squeeze to a chimeny section - Up above - good fifth class solo crack

BEWARE - There is an aggressive Bee Hive above and the suckers are not friendly - sustained numerous stings...

Be Safe - Climb Hard
By Jeremy Jones
Jan 29, 2012
I think all the routes there are sandbagged. Great wall, easy access, but some of the bolts are way off the deck. Be Careful. It was a slab fest! We had allot of fun!
By Phalanges
Feb 3, 2015
Just to update the getting there section, what's listed is now as far as I can tell out of date. Both Sven's slab and the climb's for Tom's Thumb and Gardener's Wall are accessed from a single trailhead and parking lot. The directions in the Weekend Rock were pretty confusing having never been there and with the clearly new setup. Just follow the directions on the Tom's Thumb page.
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