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 ADVANCED
Sven Slab

Select Route:
Always & Forever T,S 
Black Death T 
Cakewalk S,TR 
Changes in Attitude T,S 
Changes in Longitude T 
Chute, The T,S 
Crawl of the Wild, The T 
Direct Hop S 
Ego Trip S,TR 
Hippity Hop S 
I Sinkso T 
Mouse Tracks T 
Nit Nat  T,S,TR 
One for the Road T 
Over the Hill T 
Peaches and Cream T 
Quaker Oats S 
Top Line T 
Unknown T,S 

Sven Slab  


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Elevation: 2,000'
Page Views: 15,909
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Orphaned on Feb 3, 2006
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Description 

Sven Slab, so named because a Sven saw was used to cut the original trail up to the wall, is probably the most popular granite climbing location near Phoenix after Pinnacle Peak. This is the place to hone those sturdy foot muscles on thin granite crystal and edge climbing. The main wall is home to several nice moderate outings, while the outrigger crag down to the right features some additional harder lines.

Getting There 

Drive south from the intersection of 128th street and Dynamite Road/Rio Verde Drive until you get to a "T", make a left and drive east (high clearance required!!!) until you reach the parking area below Sven Slab. It is possible to drive to the upper area and park there if you want to put your vehicle through it's paces and skip the two minutes it takes to walk up the hill.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.9 miles from here

19 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',0],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sven Slab:
The Crawl of the Wild   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Quaker Oats   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Changes in Longitude   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Mouse Tracks   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
One for the Road   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Ego Trip   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Sport, TR, 90'   
Cakewalk   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 90'   
I Sinkso   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Black Death   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 70'   
Nit Nat    5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Classics in Sven Slab

Featured Route For Sven Slab
Long crack in the middle of the picture.

One for the Road 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Sven Slab
A really fun route on the looker's left end of Sven Slab. It's an obvious right leaning crack going up the left wall of a gully. Longer than it looks. A very enjoyable pitch, with a crux or two, bomber gear, great easy crack climb. Belay from a tree on a big ledge. A guidebook described a 2nd, pitch, it didn't look worth doing. A quick scramble up and to the right puts you on the ridge and a nice summit. Walk climber's left from the ledge and scramble back to the base to get down. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of Sven Slab Slideshow Add Photo
Ski runs up the hawk boulder at sven slabs
Ski runs up the hawk boulder at sven slabs
Jeff on one of the right-most Sven Slab friction routes (I don't know which one, and I just don't care either ;) ) Photo by me.
Jeff on one of the right-most Sven Slab friction r...
Sven Slabs - McDowell Mountains
Sven Slabs - McDowell Mountains

Comments on Sven Slab Add Comment
Show which comments
By CTK
From: Scottsdale
May 2, 2008
Note : Getting There - "It is possible to drive to the upper area and park there if you want to put your vehicle through its paces and skip the two minutes it takes to walk up the hill." It is no longer possible or appropriate to do the prior, as you will find fencing!

At this time you must park just off the main access road in what are a couple places to park a few vehicles! If you have higher clearance drive further east to the end to conserve low clearance access for others. This area official resides within the boundaries of the McDowell Sonoran Preserve and should be treated as such!
By Benjamin Smith
May 11, 2008
Just a heads up, made an attempt to climb One for the Road yesterday but got chased off by bees that look like they have a hive at the top of the first pitch. My partner and I moved over to the main bolted area, but were still getting harassed by bees.
By CTK
From: Scottsdale
Dec 12, 2008
Still, to this day there are bees, likely Africanized, as they are persistent in there harassment / attacks, still atop and around the Svenís Slab formation.
By noburu
From: Flagstaff
Nov 8, 2009
Very few bees (like 2 or 3) but no nest today at One for the Road area (11/09)
By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
May 24, 2010
For you adventurous that love to explore - There is a tunnel to the right of Black Death that you may go up into ... tight squeeze to a chimeny section - Up above - good fifth class solo crack

BEWARE - There is an aggressive Bee Hive above and the suckers are not friendly - sustained numerous stings...

Be Safe - Climb Hard
By Jeremy Jones
Jan 29, 2012
I think all the routes there are sandbagged. Great wall, easy access, but some of the bolts are way off the deck. Be Careful. It was a slab fest! We had allot of fun!