Suzie and Ishmael Do the Nasty
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|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.12+ [details]|
|FA: ||TR: D Singer, Equip and FFA: Unema/Crawley 2013|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Joel Unema on Feb 20, 2013|
This striking arete was originally toproped by Darren Singer from the anchors of Flash Flood. It was equipped and led as a mixed climb in 2013. The current line shares the start with Thick and Thin, traversing right under the hanging arete to gain the first of 6 bolts. From here the line continues up the arete, moving slightly left to share just a few moves with Thick and Thin after the 4th bolt. The climb finishes up the blank prow with two bolts. Beautiful, difficult, and committing arete climbing on bullet stone with great friction.
Start on Thick and Thin and move right, staying between Thick and Thin and Flash Flood
Gear is required to protect the first 30 feet or so that are shared with thick and thin. An assortment of cams from 0.5" to hand size (with long runners) protects this section well. Once you gain the arete, the route is protected by 6 bolts. No more gear required.