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 ADVANCED
Neighbor Of Putterman
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After the Rain T 
Big Toe Slab TR 
Fearless T 
Glob Gleab 
Putterman's Big Toe T 
Putterman's Poopshoot T 
Suzi Has No Choice T 

Suzi Has No Choice 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mark Tjaden, Jasper Hillhouse
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,105
Submitted By: Brian Shelton on Mar 24, 2002

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On the finger section of Suzi.

Description 

Suzi Has No Choice, is 100 yards to the right of Puttermans Big Toe. It is a right leaning finger to fist crack to the top of a flake. It is only 35 or so feet but the moves are all fun. The bottom is great for a finger workout.


Protection 

This is a short route so only three or four placements are needed, Gear: #5 nut at the bottom (Crux),BD#3 in the middle to BD#4 at the top to gain the top of the giant flake (35 feet). Anchors can be made from two 3 to 4 inch cams behind the flake. Lower the second then drop the rope behide the flake and rap of it.



Photos of Suzi Has No Choice Slideshow Add Photo
Mark Tjaden on the 1st ascent of Suzi Has No Choice.
Mark Tjaden on the 1st ascent of Suzi Has No Choic...
North Face "Neighbor Of Putterman"
BETA PHOTO: North Face "Neighbor Of Putterman"
Protecting the crux.
Protecting the crux.
Comments on Suzi Has No Choice Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian Shelton
Sep 3, 2002

There is now a two bolt anchor for this route.

By Mark Tjaden
Nov 15, 2002
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13

It may be short, but it is a great route. The no choice comes from having no choice but to support your boys. Suzi is my wife. This route is a perfect example of the best of both worlds. Think crack, little overhang, plus a wide fist jam at the top.

Mark

By Brian Shelton
Jan 20, 2006

Sandbagged

By Ryan Huetter
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Apr 17, 2006

teabagged

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 27, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

This is a fantastic route. Great fingers on the lower section with little for the feet, a fun transition into the wide crack, easy(ish) offwidth to the top.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 26, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I climbed this again on 10/24/13; there was nothing on the anchor bolts. I threaded one piece of black webbing and attached a quick link for rappel. This was meant as a temporary descent anchor - PLEASE DO NOT TRUST THIS ANCHOR WITHOUT ADDING TO IT.