Suzi Has No Choice 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Mark Tjaden, Jasper Hillhouse |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Brian Shelton on Mar 24, 2002 |
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Mark Tjaden on the 1st ascent of Suzi Has No Choic...
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Description Suzi Has No Choice, is 100 yards to the right of Puttermans Big Toe. It is a right leaning finger to fist crack to the top of a flake. It is only 35 or so feet but the moves are all fun. The bottom is great for a finger workout.
Protection This is a short route so only three or four placements are needed, Gear: #5 nut at the bottom (Crux),BD#3 in the middle to BD#4 at the top to gain the top of the giant flake (35 feet). Anchors can be made from two 3 to 4 inch cams behind the flake. Lower the second then drop the rope behide the flake and rap of it.
BETA PHOTO: North Face "Neighbor Of Putterman"
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On the finger section of Suzi.
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Protecting the crux.
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| Comments on Suzi Has No Choice |
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By Brian Shelton
Sep 3, 2002
| There is now a two bolt anchor for this route. |
By Mark Tjaden
Nov 15, 2002
rating: 5.10a PG13
| It may be short, but it is a great route. The no choice comes from having no choice but to support your boys. Suzi is my wife. This route is a perfect example of the best of both worlds. Think crack, little overhang, plus a wide fist jam at the top.
Mark |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 27, 2011
rating: 5.10a
| This is a fantastic route. Great fingers on the lower section with little for the feet, a fun transition into the wide crack, easy(ish) offwidth to the top. |
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